8 July 2020

Halupca 1979 9a by Mina Markovic

Mina Markovic, who has won 22 World Cups out of which two in Bouldering, has done her second 9a, Halupca 1979 in Osp/Misja Pec. Starting from 2010, she was 2 - 1 - 1 - 2 - 2 - 1, in the overall World Cup. Last year, she had her worst season although finishing #4 in the European Championship. After the lockdown with canceled competitions, workshops, and psychology lectures, she has had more free time to spend outside and go climbing.

"Firsty I have (re)climbed a lot of other routes in Misja pec, getting a good base. With temperatures getting higher I was mostly more or less 'limited' to Osp's cave, but as routes are pretty long I started to miss 'action' and powerful moves. And also, I got a desire to try something harder and not just 'tick' a project in a couple of tries. In the beginning, I thought Halupca could be a nice 'training' route, to do some hard moves outside (as I was not motivated to spend days alone in a gym). Natural rock and spend days outside in fresh air was a big motivator :) Soon, I got the feeling it could be possible but I believe no one took me seriously.

It was like a new feeling. I was just so happy to be climbing outside again trying to push my limit together with my friends. I remember when I started to climb at age ten. You know all dedicated climbers are special and I immediately found friends with the same mentality eager to do challenges etc. Having spent like 15 years with a strong focus on competitions, this spring, it was like getting back to the roots and I am so much looking forward traveling to different crags this summer and challange myself on onsights.


We also talked about her experiences of the weakened immune system at the end of last year, where no specifics reason was found, but (suggested) restoring some weight and gain back heath was the best investment in the life she could do. "Maybe more about the psychological and physical aspects of climbing, competitions, and nutrition later on."
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