Michele Reusa has done his third 8a, Balboa in Tetto di Sarre, his sixth attempt. At the same crag he also onsighted his third 8a, Sogno di Nessuno. The 13-year-old and 175 cm tall trains three times a week in a gym called Kuota 8.10 and then climbing outdoors most weekends.

"I always try onsight up to 8b. Saturday I was close on an 8a+ but I fell missing just two bolts. My goals for 2020 are to do another two 8c's and an 8c+. In September there will be a meeting for the Italian national team and I hope to qualify for the European youth cup."

William Bosi, who did his first 9b this spring, has done his second 8C, Serenata in Impossible Roof after almost ten sessions. "This has been my first big boulder project so it’s been a really cool experience. It feels amazing putting so much time into something that felt desperate and making happen. With the boulder being only 30 minutes from my house I’ve been able to have quite a few sessions and really push myself on a boulder project which has been a super cool experience. Although the line is an eliminate it climbs really nicely. On my last session I slipped on the last hard move missed the boulder mats and badly sprained my ankle. Luckily it healed quickly and I was able to come back this week and get it done"."

What is next and what about the Olympics?
In terms of outdoor projects hard to say, need to finish Mutation (9a+)! I’m still focused on the Olympics but as walls have only just started opening up I haven’t been able to speed climb since March! So just had to do a lot of off wall exercises.

Last year in Toulouse, he was super close to get a ticket in the qualifying event as he was the only one getting a hand on the last boulder after having done the first three.

Loic Zehani, who previously has done 21 routes 9a to 9b, has done three more impressive ascents including his first 8c flash, Stay kratom stay safe in St Leger, Sahara 9a+ in Gargantua and Sang neuf 9a in Pierrot Beach.

"My father flashed me the route. It is his project. Sahara" is a connexion of "Fésert convoité" 8c , "Lunatique" 8c and La fiesta del biceps" 8c+ . It's beginning with a natural boulder section and after it's very resistant. After a 9a and a physical rest, you must do an 8b/b+ very physical too. It's one of the most difficult connexions in the cave. It is unfortunately not a natural route but this is a very interesting effort. Four days before "Sahara", I sent "Sang neuf" 9a at Pierrot beach. It took me 2 days."

Loic's father is Christophe (46) who has done two 8c's in 2020. The last time he did a 9a, out of a handful, was four years ago.

Tanguy Merard, who has done two 9a's this year, has done two 8c+; Espace Challenge in Précipice de Corbière, "It's a very long route with a boulder just before the top. For me it was a big challenge to do the route in three days, (before leaving). I liked climbing on this long route, so funny to climb!" and Deltaplane man direct in Entraygues, "A bouldery route with a very interesting effort, really intense and I love it." (c) Antoine Mesnage

In July, the #1 in the junior ranking game, fell on the last move on Biographie 9a+ in Céüse. "Interesting to try the world's first 9a+. I will come back soon to try to send the route! I was close and I have to finish the work."

Alex Megos reports on Insta that he has done the first repeat of Adam Ondra's L’étrange ivresse des lenteurs in Céüse. He did it in 5 or 6 tries over three days when he also was filming his recent 9c. "It felt hard for the grade to me so I went and tried “Biographie” a day later to compare and I personally think “L’étrange Ivresse” felt more like 9a+/b to me."

In total, the German has now done some 80 routes 9a to 9c. Last year, the 27-year-old qualified to the Olympics and he also got the silver in the Lead World Championship.

Adam Ondra has added yet another four hard ascents, out of which three with personal grades and the FA of Athena Natural 9a in Arco, which means he skipped the chipped holds on a classic 8b+. "Athena climbed without artificial holds (there are two - undercling chipped into the ball in the end of the roof, and the ball right above it). I almost did second go in 2018, then I broke a foothold on my 3rd try and then gave it maybe 15 tries over the last 2 years?! In the end, I found better beta and did it today while being tired and with approaching darkness."

Beginning 9a (+) in Arco, FA by Stefano Ghisolfi: "Very resistant climbing. I found a kneebar and that made the route less bumpy, which might make it only 9a. Checked the moves and did it next go. But I had done St Anger in the past and tried Zauberfee before."

Sid Lives 8c+ (9a) in Arco: "Probably more 8c+ with good conditions. Tried a few yrs ago, I had OK flash try, but then did not try it anymore. Today despite quite warm weather checked the moves, slipped once and did it."

Estrella 8c (+) in Warmbad: "Probably more of just hard 8c. The first crux is not enough to make it 8c+, and then there are rests that are too good. Amazing route nonetheless!"

It should be mentioned that Adam Ondra is the climber in the world that has given most personal grades which later almost always have been confirmed. Without all these personal grades, including as an example, the first two 9a's he onsighted, most probably there would have been more grade inflation in the climbing world. The 27-year-old has suggested personal grades since being a young teenager. In total, he has recorded 175 routes 9a and harder but it would probably be at least 200 without personal grades. Picture from his Insta with more than 600 000 followers.

There are many disciplines in rock climbing; Routes, Boulders, Trad, Big Wall and DWS. Who are the best rock climbers in the world based on their ticklist and ranking in five disciplines? Please comment to have an impact on the draft list: Top-10 all round Rock Climbers. The unique thing with the list is that includes Barbara Zangerls which just make her the only female making it in a Top-10 list of all physical sport of all kind?

1. Adam Ondra
2. Chris Sharma
3. Iker Pou
4. Jernej Kruder
5. Jacopo Larcher
6. Barbara Zangerl
7. Cedric Lachat
8. Tommy Caldwell
9. Alex Megos
10. Toni Lamprecht, Alex Huber
If we also add competitions, then Jan Hojer should be included in the Top-10, Cedric Lachat should have been in Top-5 and Jernej Kruder #2 after Adam Ondra.

This list is mainly based on performances in Lead, Boulder and Competitions and to a lesser extent of all sporty achievements in all climbing disciplines. Who has had most impact on the sport climbing scene and who has been ahead of their time? Please comment for having an impact on the 8a Top-10 sport climber of all time.

1. Adam Ondra CZE
2. Chris Sharma
3. Wolfgang Güllich
4. Fred Nicole
5. Yuji Hirayama

6. Jerry Moffatt
7. Dani Andrada
8. Alex Huber
9. Jakob Schubert
10. Ben Moon, Daniel Woods, Nalle Hukkataival, Kilian Fischhuber, Ramon Julian Puigblanque, Dai Koyamada, Alex Megos, Toni Lamprecht and Francois Legrand

Jakob Schubert, the best male competition climber the last ten years who did his first 9b+ last year, reported on Insta that he had tried Alex Megos Bibliographie 9c in Céüse. We asked him for some further comments and surpricingly he could quickly do all moves. (c) Katha Saurwein

"I spent three tries on Alex Megos’ Bibliographie right after the competition in Briancon and it’s an amazing route actually. Alex was there himself, so he shared all his precious beta with me, which was obviously very helpful. In contrast to many other routes in Céüse Bibliographie doesn’t have only pockets but also some crimps which I definitely prefer. Alex’ description of the route might be pretty accurate when he says it‘s an 8b+ route into a hard 8A+ boulder; from there you have a really bad rest and then you have a 9a to the top.

I’m really happy I could do all the moves on it, so that was actually kind of surprising. I thought in a 9c I might have to work on the moves a lot more. Besides one at the very end with which I’m still kind of struggling with, the moves are all pretty ok. Connecting all these moves is obviously a different story but I’m psyched to return at some point. This year the season will be over quite soon, but I hope there’ll be time next year."

IFSC has presented the World Cup Calendar 2021 with six events in every discipline. Besides that the Olympics in Tokyo will take place 3-6/8 and the World Championships in Russia 20-31/8 (Youth) and 15-22/9 for seniors.