Dani Andrada reports on Insta that he during 16 days in Villanueva del Rosario did 16 routes 8a and harder including Malenun 8c+/9a, as well as bolting and opening some new routes. Ephemerides is a new 75-meter project in the 9th degree where he opened an easier 8c/+ variant. It is in the same sector as Chilam Balam but with 60 meters overhang, it just might be one of the biggest overhang route in the world. At the same time, there is possible to do a 100 metres overhanging route there just by doing another start! It took the 45-year-old two days just to bolt and the project grade is 9a+ or even 9b.
(c) David Munilla

Dani is famous for being the pioneer exploring and putting up many 9a and harder routes in Santa Linya, Siurana andRodellar, making this area the epicentre of hardcore climbing in the world. Currently, the "A Muerte" legend lives near Siurana but most of the time he is actually road-tripping is his big camper. In total, he has done 4 400+ routes 8a and harder out of which some 1 600 onsight and possibly 1 800 FAs, out of which 900 he has bolted himself! Counting just 8c to 9a+/9b he has done 485. Interestingly, he has put up two 9b's in the Ali Baba cave in Rodellar but he thinks, with knee pads, both of they are max 9a+ in their current state.

Eva Hammelmüller has done Sundance Sit 8A+ in Zillertal after just some 30 minutes. Video and comments on her Insta. It should be mentioned that all 33 ascents in the 8a database have confirmed the grade with three guys calling it "hard" and five guys comments "soft". Interestingly, the amazingly quick send was done on her second climbing session after a two weeks season break. (c) Luis Beitl

Sergey Shaferov, who started climbing at age 18, has done the FA of Gioconda smile total 9a+/b in Bakhchisaray, video.
The 39-year-old has previously done 14 FAs graded 8c+/9a or 9a. Until 2012, he was an active competition climber and in 2006, he made it to the final in the Euro Championship. Later he tried other disciplines in climbing including setting up an 8c trad and doing FAs of big walls in both Russia and Venezuela. "I think I definitely have the possibility to do an 8C boulder and in lead to flash an 8c in the future." (c) Anna Piunova, who also helped out with the interview.

"Before "Gioconda smile" I did not believe that I could climb harder than 9a. After ascent I believe in the possibility. It is important to be able to use the right time and good conditions. It's important to believe that you can do a little more. Also, the route takes a lot of time and always it’s not enough.

I bolted Gioconda smile last autumn. The line runs along the arch of a large grotto. It has a common begin (five clips including the crux) of the Tiramisu 8c+. Further, the route continues to the left with long, dynamic moves and after another five clips, it has the variant to the right to the top, Gioconda light 9a. If you continue to move to the left along the arch, passing two hard sections, separated by good rests, then it is a hard exit continuing the delicate vertical wall."

Karoline Sinnhuber has done her ninth 8A+ the last year, Morla in Zillertal. In the 8a ranking game, the Austrian is #8 but only counting the ones living in Europe, she is #2.
"Guidebook says 8A+? soft. Good conditions (around 5 degrees, dry air and shade 😍), perfect crimps. Next time the direct one, an exit without using the arete on the right side. You have to make a really comitting far move up to a good 3 finger edge. Definitely the king line on this bloc."

Janja Garnbret reports on Insta that she will not go to the European Championship in Moscow 21-29 November. "...with the current situation it would feel wrong for me to go." By the previous cancellations and looking at the start list it seems that almost all of the best will not participate. As an example, in the Top-15 in the male Lead WC 2019, only Sascha Lehmann #10 is currently listed to go.

Alex Puccio has done her 8A+ #70, Halfway Krooks Direct in Clear Creek Canyon. The 31-year-old former successful competition climber is #1 in the 8a ranking game which she has been for almost 10 years straight. (c) Robin O'Leary

Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi, who did his first 9a at age 13, has done the FA of Phantastica in Citdibi but he is not sure if it could be the first 9a in Turkey or if it is the fourth 8c+/9a. "A really long king line with a crimpy crux on the very top and a really weird rest in between, so it's hard to grade properly. The third pitch after Phantasia 8b, a super classic and pure climb."

The way he elaborates the difficulty of FA grading is certainly at the 9a level and should make his home school teachers (the parents) pleased. For the last years, the Ukrainian IT working family have been living abroad but mainly in Turkey.
"Grade harder or grade lower? Have you ever thought of how difficult it actually is to grade a brand-new route? After buying a guidebook and going out exploring the crag it seems to be quite easy, the grade written in there jumps in your head and sticks as an initially correct statement. But what if you were given a totally new wall, that has only bolts on it. Before trying, you can't even guess how hard it might be. Instead of using the path that was already found by previous athletes, you are forced to find a new one that was created by nature a long time ago. This fun and long process contain a bunch of additional steps before starting to actually project and give send tries on the route. After some time, when you finally send the line and everything is seemingly over, a new load of responsibility and questions fall upon you.

Was that the easiest way possible? Would it be easier/harder for shorter/taller people? What if that crucial kneebar rest works only for me? And how should I give a proper grade after all those unanswered questions?

Since grades are all really subjective and differ from one person to another, there's no way to make a system which could help to solve this problem. After making this kind of statement, it seems that a FAer shouldn't worry too much and the proper grade will come on its own with time and bigger amount of ascents, but it would be quite a disaster if your grand project that you were proud of would be downgraded. Then your reputation as a bolter or grade-giver would befall. As well, I want to add that since Switzerland two years ago, I just couldn't possibly visit Europe and climb some classic routes of the magic 9 grade(last year because my visa was all used up for the comps and training camps, and this year because of covid-19). That's why I can't consider myself confident and experienced enough to properly grade a route that is harder then 8c or 8c+, especially if it's potentially the first proper 9a of the country, which the new "Phantastica" 8c+/9a surely might be."

Julia Chanourdie, who has qualified to Tokyo Olympics, reports on her Insta story that has done Eagle-4 9b in St Léger. It was put up by Adam Ondra in 2018 (video) and this spring Hugo Parmentier did the first repeat after projecting it for 23 days. “To me 8B boulder good hold to clip then 8A+ boulder really good rest and 8b route.”

The first female to reach 9b was Angy Eiter with La Planta de Shiva in 2017 and this summer Laura Rogora did the hybrid boulder route, Ali Hulk Sit Start Extension Total. Julia has previously done two 9a’s and this spring she did Supercrackinette 9a+, commenting to Fanatic climbing: “I don’t think this route represents the limit of my abilities. Having successfully clipped these anchors just makes me want to go see further.” Last week, she did her first 8b onsight, La barre à un million d’annees.

The 24-year-old qualified to Tokyo being #2 in Toulouse. In between 2015 and 2018, she was Top-14 in 21 straight IFSC Lead events.

Moritz Welt has done his fifth 9a during the last five months, The Elder Statesman in Frankenjura. (c) Lars Decker

"3 sessions, 6 tries. For sure more a low end 9a. Quite a vertical one with very small crimps." In the 8a ranking game, the 19-year-old is #6.