10 November 2020

The Gioconda smile total 9a+/b by Sergey Shaferov (39)

Sergey Shaferov, who started climbing at age 18, has done the FA of Gioconda smile total 9a+/b in Bakhchisaray, video.
The 39-year-old has previously done 14 FAs graded 8c+/9a or 9a. Until 2012, he was an active competition climber and in 2006, he made it to the final in the Euro Championship. Later he tried other disciplines in climbing including setting up an 8c trad and doing FAs of big walls in both Russia and Venezuela. "I think I definitely have the possibility to do an 8C boulder and in lead to flash an 8c in the future." (c) Anna Piunova, who also helped out with the interview.

"Before "Gioconda smile" I did not believe that I could climb harder than 9a. After ascent I believe in the possibility. It is important to be able to use the right time and good conditions. It's important to believe that you can do a little more. Also, the route takes a lot of time and always it’s not enough.

I bolted Gioconda smile last autumn. The line runs along the arch of a large grotto. It has a common begin (five clips including the crux) of the Tiramisu 8c+. Further, the route continues to the left with long, dynamic moves and after another five clips, it has the variant to the right to the top, Gioconda light 9a. If you continue to move to the left along the arch, passing two hard sections, separated by good rests, then it is a hard exit continuing the delicate vertical wall."
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