Eagle-4 9b by Julia Chanourdie

Sunday, 8 November

Julia Chanourdie, who has qualified to Tokyo Olympics, reports on her Insta story that has done Eagle-4 9b in St Léger. It was put up by Adam Ondra in 2018 (video) and this spring Hugo Parmentier did the first repeat after projecting it for 23 days. “To me 8B boulder good hold to clip then 8A+ boulder really good rest and 8b route.”

The first female to reach 9b was Angy Eiter with La Planta de Shiva in 2017 and this summer Laura Rogora did the hybrid boulder route, Ali Hulk Sit Start Extension Total. Julia has previously done two 9a’s and this spring she did Supercrackinette 9a+, commenting to Fanatic climbing: “I don’t think this route represents the limit of my abilities. Having successfully clipped these anchors just makes me want to go see further.” Last week, she did her first 8b onsight, La barre à un million d’annees.

The 24-year-old qualified to Tokyo being #2 in Toulouse. In between 2015 and 2018, she was Top-14 in 21 straight IFSC Lead events.

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