Killian Chabrier has done Dreamtime 8B+ (C) in Cresciano, Insta video. "I just needed two sessions to do Dreamtime the first mythical “8C” Boulder, maybe one of the best Boulder I’ve tried. Really happy to do it despite a bit of pressure caused by the bad weather. For the grade, I saw that répétitors are hesitating between 8b+ and 8c, for me, it is more like an 8b+ hard. Now I’m hoping for good weather to do The Story of Two World where I did all moves very quickly."

Dreamtime was put up by Fred Nicole as the first 8C in the world. Later it was downgraded but due to a broken hold back to 8C again. Then a new sequence was found and 8B+ suggestion come along. In practice, this means that Dreamtime should not be considered the first 8C in the world, which Chabrier's quick ascent and thought confirms.

Kymy de la Pena has done his sixth 9a, Circo Total in . "It is a line that has always motivated me and this year I felt very fit and decided to go for it. It must be being a father that made me feel good 😂." (c) MD Varo

Allison Vest has done her third 8B, Blackout in Gallery, after just three sessions. The last week she has also sent Black #1 8A+ as well as two 8A's.

"I had a great time trying Blackout. It suits me and my love of teeny crimps and big moves really well. Each session I went there, someone I was with sent it so I was really motivated and inspired to put it together myself. I had to get creative and really convince myself I wanted to grab the tiny holds, but, stoked I made it work. I was there with (c) Alex Johnson that day who is also super close… her send is up next!"

How did you get into and out off that amazing position in the picture?
You end up with your right hand on the edge just before and rose move under to that big side pull. Then, match it to unwind!

How can you explain being in your best shape ever?
I’ve had a few overlapping leg injuries for the past several months so I’ve been doing a lot of work on lock-offs (my weakness) and hangboarding (my strength). As a result, my fingers feel the strongest they ever have and I can use them more efficiently because of the lock off training. Also, it has been a long time since I’ve felt like I’ve been able to climb and try as hard as I can because of minor tweaks and injuries so I’m super motivated right now. And, just grateful to be outside. That mental space has allowed me to clean up past boulders that I’ve left undone as well as some surprise sends on new ones.

Anastasia (Annie) Sanders, who got three golds at the last Youth World Championship, reports on Insta that she has flashed Omaha Beach 8b+ in Red River Gorge (KY). During her one week trip she also did another seven 8a and harder out of which most flash or onsight. (c) Logan Zhang

Based on 1 500+ unique votes to, Have you made a tie in mistake?, we can see that only 43 % have never made a mistake. One good piece of advice is to never disturb the climber tieing in. You should absolutely not ask for beta or if he/she could get the chalk bag or quick draws etc. The belayer should always check the knot or ask the climber to check by saying - On belay!, before starting to climb.

Magnus Midtbo, #4 in the Lead World Championship in Arco in 2011, started his Youtube channel in March 2017. In April, 8a made two posts sharing his videos. However, already in 2016, we made news about his Facebook training video that had gotten 570' views in five days. In April 2018, he had some 38 000 subscribers and in June 2019, he had the biggest rock climbing Youtube channel with 351 000 subscribers. Now he has more than 1 million, which is almost three times as many as the runner up, EpicTV and just over three times as many as Adam Ondra. The 33-year-old Norwegian did his first 9a in 2007 and in total, he has logged 17 up to 9b in his 8a scorecard.

Toby Roberts, who two weeks ago did the 35m long Batman 9a/+, reports on Insta that he has done Ben Moon's classic Hubble from 1990 at Raven Tor. The Ben Moon route was originally given 8c+ and it is a short 6 move 8B+ boulder problem into a steady 7c route. In 2012, UKC wrote an article speculating it to be 9a, although non of the first repeaters suggested this. Later all repeaters have given it 9a although a kneebar bar has been found and Mathew Wright actually has said, "Basically, if you’re short and can get the left kneebar in, it is probably 8c+ but I can’t say for certain."

Amazing shift from endurance to power. How was that possible so quickly and what about that kneebar possibility?
I had been keeping my power topped up whilst doing the longer routes previously with some power sessions so it’s nice to see it worked. I knew the kneebar was a possibility but I wanted to do it the way it was first done by Ben Moon. It was just a personal choice not to use it. I think the grade is definitely 9a, I’ve not done it with a knee pad but people have said that it’s not much easier with one. I would need to go and try it with one to give an opinion though. A few people have done it with the kneebar, but using the right knee. I think Matthew was saying if you can fit your left knee in it would be easier than using the right kneebar but there’s not much space for the left one to go in.

The 100 m world record is 9.58 and there might be 10 guys running sub 10 seconds every year. How could we relate climbing grades into a fixed measurement understanding how good we are in comparison to 100-meter sprinters? First, we have to consider that climbing is a very new sport with a limited number of persons actually trying it in comparison to sprint running. In 50 years, you could still win the world champion doing 9.58 at the same time there will be multiple guys and possibly also girls having done 9c. Here is my current best speculation trying to evaluate how impressive in relative terms climbing grades are in comparison with 100 meters times.

10a = 9.50
9c = 9.90
9b = 10.30
9a = 10.70
8c = 11.10
8b = 11.50
8a = 11.90

It should be noted that the female world record is 10.49 at the same time as 9b/+ (10.10 seconds) is the highest achieved female grade. Climbing is probably one of the most genders equalise physical sport in the world. Furthermore, climbing is unique when it comes to age as there have been climbers 12 to 50-years old that have done 9a, i.e. done 10.70 if compared to 100 meters dash. The world record for both 12 and 45-year-olds is 11.72 in 100 meters dash.