NEWS

Marine Thevenet ticks Wild Wild West (8B)
Marine Thevenet, with some 130 boulders 8A to 8C to her name, has sent wild wild west (8B) in La Pedriza.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and how you liked the area?
I visited La Pedriza for the first time for a few days. Wild wild west was at the top of my list, especially for the incredible scenery โ˜€๏ธ. The moves are really nice : a weird toe hook, a big dynamic move, a crimpy section and an easier finish :)

The area is really great, and I didnโ€™t have the time to check all the boulders I have in mind. So I will definitely go again.

What are your winter plans?
Hum ; now I have to work a lot - but I think I will go to Ticino in January or Februaryโ€ฆ not sure yet where and when ! I am pretty flexible, but I would love to find a project for February to April.

Melina Costanza does Eclipse SDS (8B)
Melina Costanza, who did her second 8B+ last month, has completed Eclipse SDS (8B) in Little Cottonwood. In September, the 25-year-old got the bronze in World Championship, which was her first IFSC Boulder competition since 2022, where her best result was #21. (c) Alex Johnson

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I went out with AJ who has tried the stand start a few times. The kneebar sequence felt awkward, but very learnable. I think people struggle with the pogos at the top, but those moves didnโ€™t prove too cruxy for me, probably because of my comp background. Was able to send both the stand and sit pretty quickly in one session!

What are your competition plans for 2026 and what is the background story for not doing any Boulder WCs for three years and then getting the bronze in the WCH?
I hope to do a lot more world cups in 2026! I was focused more on lead the past couple years. I was planning on doing the whole World Cup season this year, but tore my LCL and only recovered in time to do world champs. But Iโ€™m very excited for more bouldering competitions!

Katalin Paertan ticks Finales Funkeln (8B)
Katalin Paertan, who did her first two 8A+โ€™ this spring, has repeated Thomas Fichtingerโ€™s Finales Funkeln (8B) in Hirschwรคnde. The 22-year-old says that the main reason for her progress is due to mental progress, staying optimistic and having confidence. โ€Glad to have done this one! Really enjoyed figuring out a beta that works for me for the upper part. Probably not the hardest but also suits me quite well!โ€

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
I already started trying a few moves in spring when I was projecting Obszรถner Zwerg SD (8A+). I was quite optimistic that I could figure out beta that works for me so I planned to return in the fall. It took me five sessions then to send the boulder.

I came quite close a few times in my forth session but always kept dropping the last hard move which requires an awkward dropknee in the wrong direction, pulling from a weirdly-shaped, bad hold. I just really struggled to commit to it. On Saturday I dropped the move on my first go as well, but luckily managed to convince myself enough to do it on my second try and somehow stayed on as I was feeling quite tired already and my fingers were numb.

While I do feel a bit stronger at the moment physically, I even more notice my mental progression in climbing. Staying optimistic and having confidence in the process definitely helped me the most.

Chaehyun Seo onsights T-1 Full Equip 8c
Chaehyun Seo has onsighted T-1 Full Equip (8c) in Oliana. The 22-year-old is number two in the womenโ€™s rankings, and her score is based only on her ascents from the past three weeks in Oliana. โ€First three draws were super hard, but the other part was quite ok! Super crimpy route:))โ€

Can you tell us more about the onsight and how close you were to fall?
Trying Pachamama (9a+), I had some time before going down, so mmmโ€ฆ I just checked the line and went. I really didnโ€™t expect an onsight at all, I just tried.

It was totally hard and took all my energy from the beginning, but I just pushed and made the moves. The first crux was the hardest for me, and after that it was quite okay. I changed sequences a lot, haha.

Nicolai Uลพnik has sent Brain rot (8C+) and was very close to flash La force tranquille (8C) in Magic Wood, as can be seen in the video.

Can you tell us more about the trip and these two boulders?
It was really a great first day! I havenโ€˜t been to Magic Wood in 5 years so Iโ€˜m super psyched to be here. We started the day on the classic Mystic Stylez (8B+) which after figuring out the beta, took me like 3 attempts from the ground. Afterwards I also wanted to check out Brain rot cause I already thought it could suit me quite well, which it also did eventually! After approximately an hour I managed to link this short crimpy boulder and top it out. Obviously itโ€˜s always hard to grade these short kind of boulders, because if the moves suit you it can work out very well and otherwise maybe you have no chance at all. For me it didnโ€˜t feel that bad to be fair, so maybe more like 8C or very low end 8C+ I guess. Either way fun to climb!

[Force Tranquille] Iโ€™ve had this one on my mind for quite a while and was really looking forward to trying to flash this legendary boulder. After watching watching a couple of videos, talking to Lukas Mayerhofer about the beta, and having my brother Timo Uลพnik check it out beforehand, I felt confident I could do it.

It was an almost perfect attempt - until the right-hand dyno. I caught the crimp just a little too far left, which made matching impossible in that moment. I tried to move to the next hold even though my left hand was barely hanging on, then hesitated, went back, paused for a second, felt my fingers growing more numb and tiredโ€ฆ but decided to drop back down to the previous hold to make space for the left hand. Somehow, I managed to adjust just enough. At that point, I knew I shouldnโ€™t fall anymore - it was worth taking a moment. Even though it was still really close, I managed to reach the two good slots right before the top out.

Completely numb fingers made me hesitate again - should I move straight away or rest a bit longer? I desperately tried to get some feeling back but couldnโ€™t, so I just went for it. Iโ€™m pretty sure that if it hadnโ€™t been for the slip, I wouldnโ€™t have dropped itโ€ฆ but what can you do. ๐Ÿ˜…

Adam Ondra flashed Foundations Edge (8C) two weeks ago. In the video, he shows us his close flash attempt of Ziqqurat (8C) and also the flash of Gliese 581 (8B+). Adam gives us the backstories and is emotional about all sends.

Filip Schenk ticks Beginning (9a+)
Filip Schenk, who just did his first 9b, has sent Beginning (9a+) in Arco. โ€Last autumn I struggled a lot with the cold temperatures on this one. This year I came back and send it on my second try. This one means a lot to me!โ€

The Italian has been competing actively since 2014 and as a teenager he won eleven IFSC comps including two World Championships in Boulder. This year was his best World Cup season and he was third in Chamonix. (c) Crimp Films

โ€Eremo di San Paolo is the crag where I first started climbing, and probably the one where Iโ€™ve climbed the most in my entire life. I never really loved its style: physical, overhanging, with tiny holds. Maybe thatโ€™s exactly why I kept going back, driven by the need to test myself. After starting the season sending Erebor, I experienced a few almost magical days: within five days I also sent Tre Mou Polacche (9a) and my old project, Beginning (9a+). Finishing the hardest routes at the "Eremo" leaves me with a bittersweet feeling, but also the pride of seeing real progress in the style that has always challenged me the most."

How can you best explain your peak in 2025?
I have worked on my finger strength which always have been my weakness. Especially on rock, this has helped me. It is also about finding a balance to be motivated. Previous years I was tired after the comp season and not so motivated trying harder routes. Now I have five more days outdoors before I start my training for the next comp season.

Stefano Carnati does L'isola che non c'รจ (9a)
Stefano Carnati, who over the last three months has climbed four 9a routes, has repeated Fred Nicoleโ€™s L'isola che non c'รจ (9a) in Amden. Without the rope, the 27-year-old sent three 8Cโ€™s in October, so the Nicole classic, which starts sitting, seems to have been a perfect fit for the Italian.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Lโ€™isola che non cโ€™รจ is a pretty unique line: a hybrid route that starts with a long, sustained bouldery section and then joins a short five-bolt route to exit the cave. It was put up by Fred Nicole, and it had been sitting in the back of my mind for years. But since itโ€™s quite far from home, I kept postponing it.

Last year, in mid-October, I was climbing in Ticino and the weather turned terrible. The next day, a friend and I committed to driving to Amden. The limestone there is beautiful, and the cave didnโ€™t disappoint at all.

That day I climbed the first part Cavernicole (8A), and then returned for the longer version Ragtime (8B+), which avoids the route section entirely. After that, I started working the rope partโ€ฆ and ended up falling there quite a bit. Itโ€™s not extremely hard on its own, but coming from the very bottom of the cave it demands a ton of body tension, and that adds up.

Coming back this year, everything just clicked. Good sensations from the first go, and the climb finally came together smoothly.

Enrique Beltrรกn Blasco does Gancho Perfecto 9a/+
Enrique Beltrรกn Blasco, with eight 9aโ€™s under his belt, has completed Gancho Perfecto (9a/+) in Margalef.

Can you tell us more about your ascent?
Without a doubt, for me it has been the greatest battle Iโ€™ve ever won. The hardest route Iโ€™ve ever climbed. I started trying it in February, but in April the heat arrived and I couldnโ€™t do it. I focused on [and sent] Patanics (9a+) and training to be ready for winter. The energy in the crag was incredible; we were good friends, motivated and giving it our all. The day I finally sent it, everything just fell into place: good skin, good temperature, and my body was rested. Everything flowed, and I was on top.

Gianluca Vighetti climbs Lapsus (9a+)
Gianluca Vighetti, who sent his first 9a at age 12, has done Lapsus (9a+) in Andonno. The 17-year-old has been competing actively since 2022, and this season has been his best, winning the Euro Youth Cup U-19 overall and taking gold in Toulouse three weeks ago.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
After the competion season, I wanted a challenging project outdoor. Lapsus was a great option because it's the only 9a+ in the part of Italy where I live, and I already knew the first part Noia (8c+). Lapsus connects Noia with the two cruxes of Cobra Reale (9a) which I tried two years ago but I wasn't even able to do the single moves. After all the training in these years I improved my finger strenght a lot and I decided to come back. I was expecting to struggle a lot more with this route, but, in the end, It came down quicker than I expected, in 8 sessions. The day after I was also able to climb Cobra Reale that shares almost all the moves with Lapsus. I really loved trying these wonderful routes๐Ÿ’Ž

โ€ฆ
31
โ€ฆ