Alex Totkova from Bulgaria won Girls U-18 in the Youth World Championship in Dallas ahead of Sara Copar from Slovenia on countback as both topped the final route. "I feel amazing. I could hear the crowd and I knew Sara [Copar} topped the route so I was a little bit nervous because I knew I had to top to win, but now I feel really good. Knowing you have to top adds pressure, but I’m happy I dealt with it and did what I had to do." Complete results

In the U-20, Japan got the gold and the silver for both the boys and the girls. Interestingly, only one of the 8 + 8 finalists are from western Europe. Among the girls, Nonoha Kume won ahead of Natsuki Tanii which was quite a surprise, although Kume won also last year. Tanii has been Top-9 in all the 12 World Cups she has attended since 2019 meanwhile, Kume has not yet participated in a World Cup. "At the beginning of the route I felt quite uncomfortable. There was a hard move, but when I got passed that I knew I was in with a good shot of a win. I’m very happy."

From the complete results we can see that five of the girl finalists are from eastern Europe.

Among the oldest boys, Japan had three in the Top-4 with, Zento Murashita and Junta Sekiguchi getting the gold and silver. In Boulder, they were #2 and #3. Lovro Crep, who won the semifinal, from Slovenia got the bronze. complete results and here is the IFSC report.

Mike Doyle, who has previously done two 8c+ routes, has sent Honour and Glory (9a) in Echo Canyon, giving it a personal 8c+ grade. "What a fight to the finish! I'm really stoked to have managed to take it to the top the first time hitting the big flake! An endurance monster and masterpiece. Found really good beta (double kneepads) through the bottom. IMO 8c to the flake then 8a+/8b to the summit. That can take it up a grade but there's probably still better beta to be found. Lots of options and I really loved that about this route." The picture is from his Insta

Mike did his first 8c+, by the FA of the classical Lucifer (8c+) in Red River Gorge (KY) back in 2007.

Thomas Joannes, who previously has done five 8c+, has done Cabane au Canada (9a) in Rawyl, giving it a personal 8c+ grade as it only took him three tries. Adam Ondra onsighted it in 2013 and last year he updated his scorecard by calling it 8c+. Thomas comments, "Pure line, 100% competition climbing style. 🙂 Soft 8c+ in my opinion."

The 27-year-old has been an active competition climber until 2018. Seven times he has made the final in a Lead World Cup including once being #3.

Maxi Karrer has done Der heilige Gral (9a) in Frankenjura. It is one of the longest routes in Frankenjura following a big archway and everyone has given it five stars in the 8a database.

"I started thinking about the route when I began my studies in Erlangen 6 years ago. From there it is just a 30 minutes drive to the crag but I never felt strong enough to climb a 9a. Over the years I could climb some 8c routes and 2 years ago the FA of Laktatsturm (8c+) was my first 8c+. From that time the route “Der heilige Gral” was back in my mind!

After checking out the moves I was sure that it was possible for me. In the next season 2021, the crag was often very wet! This is one of the main problems while trying the route. So no chance for me to climb it. This year, after my exam, I felt good and had the time to try it again. The route was dry and with a very fast send of I bleed black (8c+) 3 weeks before, I was super motivated! The route starts with some easy moves in the overhang. After that, there is a hard mono section which is followed by a crazy no-hand rest. From this point, you have to climb 8c to the top. All in all, I needed around 10 sessions doing it. For sure one of the best lines in Frankenjura 😊."

On the second day of the Lead qualification in the Youth World Championship in Dallas, the Japanese youngsters continued being very high up in the rankings. In Boys U-18, Shion Omata Japan won ahead of Toby Roberts from Great Britain and interestingly Japan had four boys in the Top-7.

Among the Boys U-16, Riki Isihara Japan and Luka Nündel Germany were tied #1 and in Girls U-16, Anastasia Sanders USA and Natsumi Oda Japan were tied #1.

The live-streaming from the semifinal for the U-20 and also for the Girls U-18 starts 15.45 Euro Time.

Simon Lorenzi, who last year did the FA of Soudain seul (9A) after 26 sessions, reports on Insta that he linked Shawn Raboutou's Alpahane 9A in two parts after just five warm sessions. "The line and moves are amazing. 💎It's an incredible mix of strength, tension and technicity! I've found the style quite unique and complex since most of the difficulty comes from keeping your feet on the wall and pull enough in it to optimize the hand holds." (c) Oriane Tollebeek

Were you surprised to do so good links so quickly?
I didn't know what to expect when I arrived. I took it step by step and yes I was quite surprised and very happy to make those links in warm conditions.

What is the crux for you?
For me, it's a kind of power endurance on 8-10 moves where you have to keep the tension all the way long.

What is next? Putting up a replica?
First, I'm going to train for the combined comp in Japan at the end of October. In November I will go back to Alphane.

The Belgian has been an active competition climber since 2011. In 2016, he won the Youth Lead Championship, and this year he won the Euro Boulder Cup in Brixen. The 25-year-old has previously also done four 8C+ meaning that if he sends Alphane, he will be a contender for having the most impressive tick list in the world.

On the first day of the Lead qualification in the Youth World Championship in Dallas, Japan dominated as they also did last year. In the oldest girls category, Natsuki Tanii was the only one to top out both routes. Runner-up on both routes was Nonoha Kume also from Japan. Results Girls U-20.

Among the oldest boys, Zento Murashita was #1, followed by Connor Herson from the USA and Junta Sekiguchi. Interestingly, Japan had four in the Top-8 and USA three. Results Boys U-20.

In the Girls U-18, Alex Totkova from Bulgaria won ahead of Sara Copar from Slovenia who got the gold in Boulder. Results Gilrs U-18

Jane Švecová (Vincourkova), who did her first 8B+ this spring, has made the FA of Margo (8B) in Moravský kras, video.

"I was originally trying Janja SD (8B+) from Martin Stráník. Unfortunately, I couldn't reach most of the holds and the major parts of the moves were impossible for me. While my husband kept trying Janja I decided to entertain myself and kept trying it, I found a completely different way for the crux. The first three to four moves are the same, but then I continued with the moves further up in the roof, so I decided to make a new boulder from it. I've been struggling with one, I would say, the crux move, but then Lucie Hrozová visited me and she came out with a very different beta which suited me even better. Then there was a really hard foot exchange which took me most of the time, to do it.

It is crazy to say but even in the summer, there could be close to five-degree celsius by the boulder, so for many days, I was struggled with cold, or with a wet rock because of the moisture coming from the cave below the boulder. On day eight or so I finally saw some progress. Then the weather was really poor and I had a lot of work, so I was just hang boarding a lot. After a month I got time to get back, and we came to the crag, I warmed up in some easy boulders and sent the project first go. I didn't expect it, everything was just perfect, I just kept going and all of the sudden, I was at the top. So yeah, it was very fast send that day, I decided calling it Margo as it is as well an iconic climber as Janja and the style of this climb is similar to what you can see from Margo, for-example in LaRambla 🙂"