Cody Roth, who one month ago did the FA of Flipping the Bird (9a), at Arco's Grottosauro, has reported on Insta that he has bolted and sent a new direct finish to it, which he thinks could be a little harder but he is reluctant to up the grade. (c) Francesco Zerbi

"A week after freeing Flipping the Bird, I went back and added a further eight bolts which created an independent finish for this climb. Initially I'd doubted that there was enough there, which is why I went into the neighbouring 8c. Once I completed Flipping the Bird, I was able to zoom out again and I realized there probably was enough there for a direct finish and I couldn't help feeling like I'd taken the easy way out. I didn't expect to climb it as quickly as I did, and claiming another 9a and getting attention for it feels a bit like cheating in this case, which is why I haven't made a big deal out of it; but, if it being known means others might climb it, I'm happy!

I managed to get it done on the evening of May 3rd after work, and just two days before flying to the US for a family visit and work conference, which I just came back from. I think this direct version could be a touch harder, but I'm not entirely sure and I don't feel any pressure to put a plus on it. With both of these climbs I was able to approach them in such an efficient, slow-build way which makes it hard to keep perspective. On top of that, I worked on them alone which gives great feeling of self-reliance, but not such a great feeling of awareness and certainty."

The US women have had a great start to the Boulder World Cup. After three events, Brooke Raboutou and Natalia Grossman, are in pole position and 15-year-old, Anastasia Sanders is ranked #8. The other solid performers thus far are Japan, with four women Top-15, followed by France, with three. Looking back to last year, these three countries were also the strongest in the women's circuit. Janja Garnbret is slated to compete in the upcoming WC in Prague , which will add to the excitement. She missed the first three due to a foot injury. Raboutou and Sanders are not registered for Prague, but they're scheduled to compete the following weekend in Brixen.

Michaela Kiersch reports on Insta with a picture by Vladek Zumr that she has done Unendliche Geschichte 2 (8A) in Magic Wood. Later she also did Sofa Surfer (8A+).

Can you tell us more about those ascents?
Both were the only dry things in the forest at the time so it was logical to try them! I briefly tried SS last year and decided to prioritize other boulders instead, it was cool to come back and send it quickly! UG2 was extremely challenging for me because of the powerful start move so it's been really rewarding to see progress in that style.

How long will you stay in the area and what's next?
Maybe another week or so. Next, I’ll go home - ready for a break! It’s been a very busy and intense spring for me with lots of climbing and projecting.

Are you planning on going to work full-time after your Doctor's exam?

I actually have 2 jobs [currently]! I've been working part-time at 2 hospitals when I'm home. It's very flexible and I can create my own schedule, which has been ideal. Usually, I work on rest days 😉 What are your two jobs?
I am an occupational therapist (what I have my degree in) and I work in inpatient rehabilitation and neurological rehabilitation. My schedule varies every week depending on my training and travelling but I get in as often as I can.

As it stands, the 28-year-old is a contender for having the All-Time High best Combined route and boulder tick list. In just the last year, she has done around 35 boulders 8A to 8B+. In previous years, she was more focused on routes having completed a dozen routes 8c+ and harder. Michaela was #22 in her Boulder World Cup debut in 2010 at age 15 and the next year she was #18 in a Lead World Cup. From there, she put competitions to the side, and chose to focus on rock and University. Michaela did her first 8c and 8c+ at age 21. Interview from last year.

Francesco Berardino, who previously has done three 8B+ and The Story of Two Worlds (8C), reports on Insta that he has sent Off the Wagon Sit (8C+) in Valle Bavona. (c) Rainer Eder

What is your climbing background?
I started climbing at the age of 12 with my dad and since then I’ve been extremely passionate about this fantastic world. 3 years ago I saw the video of Shawn[Raboutou] doing Off the Wagon and from there, it was love at first sight. I also wanted to be able to climb the same boulders as in the Mellow YouTube channel. The next day I went to Val Bavona with my dad to try it, even though I knew it was beyond my level. But that was a great starting point because I soon started doing my first 8A’s and 8B’s in Magic Wood. The real turning point happened last year when I met Giuliano Cameroni, who later became a great friend. He gave me amazing advices on how to train my fingers. Since then my climbing fully evolved and I started listening to my body and started seeing and hearing things that I couldn’t perceive before. My vision of what’s possible improved a lot and I started trying boulders with movements at the limit of what’s possible. We are talking about 9A to 9B boulders.

I started trying one of these futuristic lines in Cresciano, right next to the famous Dreamtime. It’s a fantastic line, perhaps the most beautiful I’ve seen so far. It could be 9A stand and 9B sit. The key for me is to try extremely difficult lines that seem impossible at first but after a lot of tries, they become realistic projects. This was the main advice from Giuliano: the fastest way to improve in outdoor climbing is to try moves above our limit on small holds. With specific finger training, I feel like I will be able to do every move that’s possible for my body.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I started trying the stand three years ago and was very close to sending it several times, then in February this year I decided to remove the wagon and start trying from below and in 3 months [15 sessions more or less] I managed to send it.

What does a normal climbing/training week look like?
Lately, when I’m at home I’m training every day to reach my maximum potential. When I go out to climb the best workout for me in a top week would be; to try very hard projects and then go back to try 8C\8C+ and feel the best grips let’s say.

William Bosi has done the first repeat of Aidan Robert’s Isles of Wonder Sit (8C) in Ogwen valley, and here is the video. ”Really happy to send this king line! I think my beta is easier than Aidan's so I think 8C is fair.

During the last 12 months, Will has done two 9A’s, two 8C+’ and eighth 8C’s and his 8a annual score is 12 403, which is the highest ever achieved. However, in the All time-high list, Bosi is #5 after Woods, Webb, Ondra and Cameroni.

Can you tell us more about the ascents, the new beta and the number of sessions needed?
It took three sessions total counting my first day where I did the stand a couple of years ago. I had my second session on Friday and dropped the last move a couple of times before deciding to stop and return yesterday.

I used the starting heel hook for the first two moves rather than just the first which meant I was able to avoid the shoulder move being as savage.

Martin Stráník, #2 in the Boulder WCH in 2007 and #4 in the Lead WCH in 2021, has repeated Adam Ondra's To Tu Ještě Nebylo (9a) in Labské údolí. "Hardest route on CZ sandstone! Tried occasionally the last years and this spring focused on it more and did it on my 4th session. So cool route, intense 17m of climbing without rest." (c) Jan Simanek

What is the route's background?
Germans bolted from the top, which is against the rules, then bolts were removed and Ondra Beneš started bolting from the ground. He put three bolts and then Adam [Ondra] added the 4th bolt. Adam made the FA and the others ascents are: Alex Megos, Felix Neumarker and Ondra Beneš.

What are your competition plans this year?
All lead WC, Prague and Brixen boulder WC ;)

Soratu Anraku (16), the Lead Youth World Champion the last two years, won the semifinal in the Salt Lake City Boulder World Cup and topped all four boulders in the final. Tomoa Narasaki won the qualification and was runner up in the semi. In the final, Tomoa flashed the first boulder and in the end, he only needed six attempts for the four boulders. Toby Roberts got his first podium after being third and fourth in the previous rounds. Complete results

Overall, the route setters were spot on with the difficulty of the boulders with more tops than usual, although nobody topped all 13 boulders. Mejdi Schalck, who won both the two first rounds in Asia, did not participate in SLC.