25 May 2023
Cody Roth, 39, FAโs Flipping the Bird Direct (9a)
Cody Roth, who one month ago did the FA of Flipping the Bird (9a), at Arco's Grottosauro, has reported on Insta that he has bolted and sent a new direct finish to it, which he thinks could be a little harder but he is reluctant to up the grade. (c) Francesco Zerbi
"A week after freeing Flipping the Bird, I went back and added a further eight bolts which created an independent finish for this climb. Initially I'd doubted that there was enough there, which is why I went into the neighbouring 8c. Once I completed Flipping the Bird, I was able to zoom out again and I realized there probably was enough there for a direct finish and I couldn't help feeling like I'd taken the easy way out. I didn't expect to climb it as quickly as I did, and claiming another 9a and getting attention for it feels a bit like cheating in this case, which is why I haven't made a big deal out of it; but, if it being known means others might climb it, I'm happy!
I managed to get it done on the evening of May 3rd after work, and just two days before flying to the US for a family visit and work conference, which I just came back from. I think this direct version could be a touch harder, but I'm not entirely sure and I don't feel any pressure to put a plus on it. With both of these climbs I was able to approach them in such an efficient, slow-build way which makes it hard to keep perspective. On top of that, I worked on them alone which gives great feeling of self-reliance, but not such a great feeling of awareness and certainty."
"A week after freeing Flipping the Bird, I went back and added a further eight bolts which created an independent finish for this climb. Initially I'd doubted that there was enough there, which is why I went into the neighbouring 8c. Once I completed Flipping the Bird, I was able to zoom out again and I realized there probably was enough there for a direct finish and I couldn't help feeling like I'd taken the easy way out. I didn't expect to climb it as quickly as I did, and claiming another 9a and getting attention for it feels a bit like cheating in this case, which is why I haven't made a big deal out of it; but, if it being known means others might climb it, I'm happy!
I managed to get it done on the evening of May 3rd after work, and just two days before flying to the US for a family visit and work conference, which I just came back from. I think this direct version could be a touch harder, but I'm not entirely sure and I don't feel any pressure to put a plus on it. With both of these climbs I was able to approach them in such an efficient, slow-build way which makes it hard to keep perspective. On top of that, I worked on them alone which gives great feeling of self-reliance, but not such a great feeling of awareness and certainty."
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