Tom O’Halloran made the FA of Hump of Trouble in Blue Mountains last week. The Olympian, who already has done five 9a’s, has not suggested a grade but calls it the hardest route in Australia.

”I bolted the route in 2014. Started trying it seriously in 2017. Then spent 2018 and 2019 fully dedicated to it. 2020 was injury and Olympics prep. 2021 Olympics. 2022 it didn’t dry out due to epic amounts of rain. Then sent after 9 days this year. I think it’s around 60-70 days total. Many days finding beta. Many days with not the best weather or tactics or whatever else, but also many days giving it everything I have and leaving empty handed. Happy to have it over with and thinking about new projects. There are many which have had to be put aside while I tried this project.

I really don’t know about grade. I prepped a lot better this year than previous years. Plus just being a better climber, coming back after nearly four years away. It’s given me the most amount of trouble than any others route. Though I’d named it Hump of Trouble prior to attempting it. It lived up to its name!”

Tanguy Merard, who has already done three 9a+'s in 2023, has started August by sending A muerte bilou (9a) in Verdon. Then he moved to Gorges du Loup where he during ten days sent Trip tik tonik (9a), Just two fix (9a), KinematiX (9a) and Punt'X (9a). (c) H2mimages

"The first step in my trip was in Les gorges du Verdon, I tried "A Muerte Bilou" a 9a opened by Seb Bouin. On the first day, I did the first part (8c+) and on the second day I managed to find a good beta in the second part and on the third day I did the route on my first try. I was really happy because the route was scaring me. Then we (with Marzu) left for the Gorges du Loup. The goal was to do Trip Tik Tonic 9a in one session, it's a classic route from there on beautiful tufas. Finally, I sent it with a headlamp in the dark the first evening. The days after I sent Just two fix 9a and Kinematix 9a. My next goal was to try Punt'x 9a+ with Jules Marchaland. I was very surprised to complete the route in only 10 tries. Today I did Inga 8c+/9a, it's quite an exceptional route because it starts with a boulder in a cave and then ends in an 8c route. The best route was A Muerte Bilou because it is really big and impressive. It is 55m long and with 55° the most overhanging. Now I'm going to finish the trip trying easier routes and cheer on Jules on his tries tomorrow."

What's next on your radar?
A project in Entraygues, Le pamphlet 9a+/9b!? I have put 25/30 sessions I think.

What does a normal climbing week typically consist of for you?
I train from Monday to Thursday and I climb outdoors during the weekend, but this summer I was on holiday so I just climbed outdoors.

Adrian Houbron has done To do list (8c+) in La Balme de Yenne. (c) Mathieu Pisaniello

"The route was bolted and climbed for the first time a few years ago by Mathieu Bouyoud. It is really different from the usual style of la Balme de Yenne as it is a slightly overhanging wall with no kneebar or tufa, just pure climbing on small holds. The route starts with a hard boulder problem with a shoulder movement on crimps right after with no rest. There is a section of pure power endurance climbing of approximately 20 moves. The end of the route is not that hard (around 8a), but it is nice to climb and it goes to the very top of the cliff."

Gonzalo Larrocha has been on a two-week climbing trip to Croatia and Slovenia focusing as usual on onsights. The 38-year-old has now done 2000 routes 8a and harder including well over 200 onsights. In Smrka he set a personal record onsighting six in one day.

Can you tell us more about that amazing onsight day?
Usually, when I came to a new sector I try to make some 8a on the first try. When I did the third one I thought that I could try to break my personal best which was 4 onsight and one second go. Then I did the fourth and was quite nervous on the fifth which was more bouldery. Finally, I tried the sixth route which was a 45m marathon. Happy and very tired we went back to the camper. Thanks to Silvia who supported me, and also to Klemen and others locals guys that show the beautiful crag that they have.

Can you describe the best crags you visited?
Smrka is really nice you can see the sea from the approaching. There are long routes with many tufas. Buzetski kanjon has several sectors with tufas crimps and the approach is plane. Vranjača is an impressive cave and perhaps one of the colder crags in Croatia.

Alex Puccio has started the high alpine season at Mount Blue Sky by doing Mental Masturbation (8A+), The Exfoliator (8A+) and King Critter Sit (8A+).

On Instagram she comments, The Exfoliator, "Always wanted to go check this one out and it didn’t disappoint. Really hard first move with bad feet and awkward body position. Short, crimpy and powerful so kinda my style! 💪🏻😉 Thanks to @waterhouseclimb for starting the send train and giving me the motivation to follow suit. 😄"

Alex, the runner-up in the World Championship in 2014, has done 250+ boulders 8A and up, which is a female record.

Allison Vest has started her trip to Rocklands by doing Bitch! (8B), "Cooked up a new recycle beta with a high toe hook to avoid the big bump. Totally my style, it may be in a hole but it climbs super well." and , "Did the gross matchy way, really liked this boulder a lot."
"Glad I started my trip off with a couple of 8B's because the last few weeks my skin has been sore and the boulders have not been cooperating as well… All part of the game but this trip has been lots of learning. Tactics, patience, and trying to be more confident. So happy to be here for my first trip! Wouldn’t have been possible without Frances and Billy and their headlamps :)"

In the 8a ranking game, Allison is #3 having done six 8B's during the last 12 months.

Camille Pouget, who was #6 in the Briancon World Cup in July, has done Hot Chili-X (8c) in Gorges du Loup. "Really nice route! Not so natural, with many carved holds but every move is interesting. I'm so happy to top this classic line of strong's endurance just after Leo [Tubiana] who topped the day just before. Thanks to him for the demo and the betas 🙌 I think it could be flashed by stronger climbers if you can catch a local who gives you the beta ( as already done by the monster Tanguy Merard 💪)."

Clothilde Morin has done Dulcifer (8A) in Schöllenen and Sofa Surfer (8A+) in Magic Wood.

"I think Sofa Surfer is the most difficult boulder I did so far. I did it in four sessions. It was a bit frustrating because I had climbed a lot before, and at the end of session #3 I felt so close, but too exhausted to do it. "