
16 August 2023
Tanguy Merard sends four 9a's and Punt'X (9a/+) during a two week spree
Tanguy Merard, who has already done three 9a+'s in 2023, has started August by sending A muerte bilou (9a) in Verdon. Then he moved to Gorges du Loup where he during ten days sent Trip tik tonik (9a), Just two fix (9a), KinematiX (9a) and Punt'X (9a). (c) H2mimages
"The first step in my trip was in Les gorges du Verdon, I tried "A Muerte Bilou" a 9a opened by Seb Bouin. On the first day, I did the first part (8c+) and on the second day I managed to find a good beta in the second part and on the third day I did the route on my first try. I was really happy because the route was scaring me. Then we (with Marzu) left for the Gorges du Loup. The goal was to do Trip Tik Tonic 9a in one session, it's a classic route from there on beautiful tufas. Finally, I sent it with a headlamp in the dark the first evening. The days after I sent Just two fix 9a and Kinematix 9a. My next goal was to try Punt'x 9a+ with Jules Marchaland. I was very surprised to complete the route in only 10 tries. Today I did Inga 8c+/9a, it's quite an exceptional route because it starts with a boulder in a cave and then ends in an 8c route. The best route was A Muerte Bilou because it is really big and impressive. It is 55m long and with 55ยฐ the most overhanging. Now I'm going to finish the trip trying easier routes and cheer on Jules on his tries tomorrow."
What's next on your radar?
A project in Entraygues, Le pamphlet 9a+/9b!? I have put 25/30 sessions I think.
What does a normal climbing week typically consist of for you?
I train from Monday to Thursday and I climb outdoors during the weekend, but this summer I was on holiday so I just climbed outdoors.
"The first step in my trip was in Les gorges du Verdon, I tried "A Muerte Bilou" a 9a opened by Seb Bouin. On the first day, I did the first part (8c+) and on the second day I managed to find a good beta in the second part and on the third day I did the route on my first try. I was really happy because the route was scaring me. Then we (with Marzu) left for the Gorges du Loup. The goal was to do Trip Tik Tonic 9a in one session, it's a classic route from there on beautiful tufas. Finally, I sent it with a headlamp in the dark the first evening. The days after I sent Just two fix 9a and Kinematix 9a. My next goal was to try Punt'x 9a+ with Jules Marchaland. I was very surprised to complete the route in only 10 tries. Today I did Inga 8c+/9a, it's quite an exceptional route because it starts with a boulder in a cave and then ends in an 8c route. The best route was A Muerte Bilou because it is really big and impressive. It is 55m long and with 55ยฐ the most overhanging. Now I'm going to finish the trip trying easier routes and cheer on Jules on his tries tomorrow."
What's next on your radar?
A project in Entraygues, Le pamphlet 9a+/9b!? I have put 25/30 sessions I think.
What does a normal climbing week typically consist of for you?
I train from Monday to Thursday and I climb outdoors during the weekend, but this summer I was on holiday so I just climbed outdoors.
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