NEWS

Schubert upgrades Clash of the Titans to 9b
Jakob Schubert says about his recent upgrade of Clash of the Titans to 9b. ยฉ Michael Piccolruaz

"It's been more than five years since I first tried the "Clash of the Titans" route at home in Tyrol. It was first climbed by Alex Megos in 2017. Alex rated it 9a+ at the time, but it always felt substantially harder to me. I've climbed quite a few 9a+'s and 9b's, but none of them took as much effort as this route. However, after sending it rather quickly last year, I was no longer sure if it really deserved an upgrade, so I was hesitant to post the ascent and have a clear opinion on the difficulty. After all, the route doesn't fit my preferred style, which is crimping, but there are quite a few open handholds on this route that gave me a hard time. Earlier this year, I had the opportunity to climb the route with Stefano Ghisolfi, who also took a look at the route and gave his opinion.

In general, I think we saw some kind of grade inflation in sport climbing over the last years and I feel itโ€™s the responsibility of everyone who is capable of climbing the hardest grades to also give their honest opinion. Thatโ€™s why Iโ€™ve downgraded some routes in the past. For the same reason, I now suggest an upgrade for โ€œThe Clash of the Titans."

Manon Hily sends La Bongada (8c+/9a)
Manon HILY, who was #3 in the Briancon World Cup in 2023, has done Los รบltimos vampiros hippies (8c) as well as La Bongada in Margalef. The 29-year-old has now logged 13 routes 8c and above.

Sera Gearhart ticks Senderella Right Sit (8A+)
Sera Gearhart has done Senderella Right (sit) (8A+) at 221. This was her sixth boulder problem graded 8A+ to 8B in 2023.

โ€œThis boulder has one hard, super awkward throw into two potential exits. For me, this exit was more approachable! I was able to do the boulder the first time I stuck the move. We only have one week left of our trip, and I came to this boulder because it's not very sharp and I have been struggling with my skin because of other things I'm working on.

Sam Prior completes Serenata, making it his first 8C
Sam Prior has done his first 8C by repeating Mike Adamsโ€™ Serenata at Impossible Roof. โ€A great feeling of progression that I wasnโ€™t actively seeking.โ€

Can you tell us more about Serenata?
Itโ€™s been a funny year really because I stopped doing any formal training or conditioning last year and my son was born at the start of this year. So I really wasnโ€™t expecting to see an uptick in form, I think perhaps I needed to chase it a little less and just enjoy it a little more. Which I have!

Anak Verhoeven redpoints another 9a
Anak Verhoeven reports on Instagram that she has sent Fabela pa la enmienda (9a) in Santa Linya. "This send feels like a personal victory toward the end of this climbing trip โš”๏ธ after several morale underminers the past month, in particular a sudden back problem [probably a ligament inflammation]. Sending this one is encouraging and Iโ€™m glad I can simply still climb." (c) Javi Pec

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I climbed on this route on and off during my stay here in Santa Linya. At a certain point, I had to take a break due to a back problem and pain. When I felt better, I did all the moves again and then climbed it on my first redpoint try. In 2017 I had already done La Fabela and also the Enmienda part (by coming from the Ciudad de Dios start), but this was the first time I linked those two together into โ€˜La Fabela pa la Enmiendaโ€™, a classic 9a that goes all the way to the top of the cave.

Jesse Grupper flashes Pure Imagination (8c+)
Jesse Grupper, who six weeks ago secured an Olympic ticket, reports on Instagram that he has flashed Pure Imagination (8c+) in Red River Gorge (KY). The beta he got from Alex Megos and the night before they had watched a video. (c) Eric Hรถrst

"The sun was moving fast, there was a queue on the route, and it was now or never. I convinced myself that it would be okay if it didnโ€™t go, while reminding myself of all the reasons I was ready. Getting through the initial crux, I felt a sense of relief. I wasnโ€™t crazy for having this dream - regardless of what happened next."

Ryohei Kameyama, who has previously completed a dozen boulders 8C or 8C+, has published a video of sending Toru Nakajama's Flux (8C) in Gero City in Japan. "I could climb it on the first try after practicing the moves for two days."

What is your winter plan?
I'll try Burden of Dreams (9A) again next year. I have been there two times and spent three weeks there in total.

Kai Whaley (17) does Sleepwalker (8C+)
Kai Whaley has skipped three grades by completing Sleepwalker (8C+) in Unknown Crag. The previous PB for the 17-year-old was an 8B that he sent in October.

โ€œWords canโ€™t describe how much sending Sleepwalker means to me. Growing up in Las Vegas, I watched Jimmy Webb during the process of the first ascent when I was only 11 years old. Iโ€™ve always wanted to try the boulder but back then I was too short and was not powerful enough to do any of the moves. I did make quite the big grade jump this season but thatโ€™s mainly because I decided to focus all my time on Sleepwalker after a few promising sessions. I have also gotten close on other hard climbs that will fill in the grade gap. It was a big physical and mental battle for me after some regression in the middle sessions that I had to battle with, but in the end it was all worth it because I was able to do one of the most iconic climbs where I grew up.โ€

Jesรบs Muรฑoz Vaquero sends El Elegido (8B+/C)
Jesรบs Muรฑoz (Chuchi) has repeated Beto Rocasolano's El Elegido (8B+) at La Pedriza. The Spaniard has previously completed four 8C's and a dozen 8B+'.

"22 moves separated in two very obvious parts. The first part is five moves around 8B and the last 17 moves are around 8A. Climbing these movements is around 8B. The second part would be the following 17 movements. This part differs from the first in that it is less explosive but much more resistant. The difficulty of this section in isolation will be around 8A. On Saturday I made it to this last good hold and I thought it was done but I fell. The main reason why I fell is because I was exhausted, but also because in that night's attempt, I did not put a very big left foot that would have given me the send. This Monday, I returned with the pressure of wanting to reach that hold again and have a new opportunity to send it. After a disastrous first hit in which I fell in the second move, I gave it a second good try in which I reached that last move again. This time I was right to put the big left foot and I could enjoy the send that escaped me the day before.

I tried the boulder 2 years ago a couple of times, but it was this year that I really dedicated myself to it. I started trying it at the beginning of November and it took me a total of 7 sessions spread over 3 weeks. I am thrilled to complete with this boulder the list of the most difficult bouldering climbs that can be done in La Pedriza. โ€œLemento Sitโ€ 8C, โ€œEl Elegidoโ€ 8B+/C, โ€œCharlotteโ€ 8B+ and โ€œFotofobiaโ€ 8B+. "

Marine Thevenet ticks The Call of Silence (8B)
Marine Thevenet has sent The call of silence (8B) in Albarracรญn. The former lawyer has just started her own business as a sports manager and has more than 100 boulders 8A and beyond under her belt.

Can you tell us about your recent trip?
I went to Albarracin for 3 weeks, and we were really lucky with the weather. I had no expectations other than climbing a lot of things with friends and discovering the new areas Albarracin has to offer (my last trip was 5 years ago and the community opened some new boulders and sectors since then).

I was really happy to send "The call of silence". It was hard mentally because I had a bad split and I didn't know if I could be able to do some good tries with the tape, for the "sending day". The first part of the boulder is really sharp, and then you have the crux move to reach some slopers. Then the end is scary but easier.

I tried it with a friend and we did 2 sessions on it, figuring out the moves. We decided to give some tries at our 3rd session. He climbed first and sent it on the first go of the day !!! The psych was really high, and I did it right after !!! It was a really special moment.

The rest of the trip was really nice too, with a lot of classics, as Zarzaparrilla (8A+), Bindu (8A+) Cosmos (8A) and some new boulders like Llanero solitario (7C+).