NEWS

Jenny Buckley makes quick work of Forever More Sit (8A+)
Jenny Buckley, who did her first 8A at age 13, has sent Forever More sit (8A+) in Brione. In 2023, the 16-year-old did ten IFSC Youth Comps and her worst result was #8.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
All of my friends that I usually go rock climbing with were busy so I took two crashpads with me hopped on a bus and went to Brione alone. I warmed up quickly and remembered Forever More was quite a short boulder and relatively safe with only two pads. So I went straight to it and sent it in about ten minutes. It suited my style and overall I have to say it's a beautiful boulder.

What is your climbing background?
I was born in Slovenia but moved to Ticino 5/6 years ago and am a big fan of rock climbing but don't go outdoors often since training is currently the main focus. I'm mostly a competition climber so this off-season I have been practically only training hard indoors. Yesterday I had a day where I could go for a day to have fun and just enjoy the rock.

Noรฉ Looser ticks Frank's wild years 8A (+)
Noรฉ Looser, Lead European Youth Champion in September, has done Frank's wild years 8A (+) in Cresciano. The 17-year-old sent her first 8c at age 13. โ€Frank's was a really cool project which I had a lot of fun with. I tried Frank's this year three or four days and last year once. I think the first three moves are the hardest. For the hook I needed a lot of body tension.โ€

BJ Tilden, 43, did the FA of The Ritual (9a) in The Temple last October."Another hard and awesome one in the temple! Not as hard as Pneuma but seems solid in the grade. Different style but just as high quality."

Babsi Zangerl does Solitary Souls direct exit (8c)
Barbara Zangerl has sent Solitary Souls direct exit (8c) in Arco after trying it a dozen times. The Austrian has the most impressive female multi-discipline ticklist in the world. Last year, she sent the trad line Meltdown (8c+) and she has done five bolted routes graded 8c+/9a or 9a. Her big wall resume is elite and she completed boulders to 8B until she incurred problems with her back.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I had a great time in Arco. Solitary Souls (8c+) is a route from Alfredo Webber and Adam [Ondra] did the onsight of that pumpy steep line. I just did the direct exit which is easier and a bit shorter. I would be psyched to get on the main line which is longer and adds another pumpy crux to the line.

What is your next plan?
In general, my plan in winter is to train mostly in the gym and I work a bit more in the hospital at this time of the year.

How does a normal training week look?
I train 5 times a week, mostly freestyleโ€ฆ lots of time in the bouldering gym.

Any big travel plans for 2024?
In summer we would be psyched to go on an expedition to Pakistan or Indiaโ€ฆ. We are still planningโ€ฆ not sure yetโ€ฆ and in fall back to Yosemite.

Babsi has previously commented on how it is possible to focus on so many disciplines at the same time?
"For me personally this is the best way to stay motivated all the time. I canโ€˜t really imagine focusing just on one style all the time. Maybe I would be stronger then but it would be less fun, I guess. I love all the different styles of climbing. For me, it is not all about climbing hard. I love the mental challenge in trad climbing and the adventures in big wall climbing. Climbing an easier graded route which is hard to protect can be a harder challenge compared to climbing a hard-graded sport climbing route. So it is all relative. I just really like the learning process of trying out something new."

David Bermudez Carbonell, 14, ticks Escalatamasters 9a (8c+)
David Bermudez Carbonell, who did 13 routes 8c or 8c+ in 2023, has sent Esclatamasters (9a) in Perles & Canelles. (c) Sputnik Climbing

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
This week I am with my parents on holiday. The first day we went to Oliana and I could do Fish eye 8c on my second go. The next days I tried Esclatamasters and I progressed really fast on the route and finally on my 6th attempt in total I could send it. Today I had to make a strategy because it was very hot and this route has a slab with very small holds that require a cold temperature. Anyway, the route is amazing and combines an overhanging and physical part with a very technical slab. I am very happy!! Now, I will enjoy the rest of the days trying to climb onsight.


When David did his first 8c+, last spring, we asked his mother Isabel what a normal climbing week looks like. โ€œDavid normally trains in a climbing wall 3 times a week. He loves to do infinite movement traverses, although he trains in a self-taught way. The climbing wall where we train has nothing to do with the current climbing walls, it is a climbing wall set up by a group of climbers with density walls very focused on the transfer to the rock. Nobody tells David what he has to do and he decides what he will do each day. Without a trainer, nutritionists or psychologists... [This has changed as he since couple of months he is part of Sputnikclimbing.]

He is also passionate about watching videos of climbers of all times and loves to climb everywhere in the house (including the living room table ๐Ÿ˜‚). His talent, motivation and passion for climbing make him achieve the accomplishments he is making with his small stature and young age (13 years old). Best of all, he always enjoys the process.

David climbs every weekend and is a climber who always gives his all, he climbs at the top of his game on every pitch. He has a lot of endurance and self-confidence. So as soon as he finds the right method to solve the hardest pitches on the routes, he never fails.

He loves to onsight climb, and although we usually climb on weekends regularly in Cuenca, he usually tries some onsight climbing (below his grade) before trying his project. Also when we go on a climbing trip on holidays, he always climbs onsight.โ€


Carte Blanche in Cรฉรผse - most zlagged 8a
Carte Blanche (8a), in Cรฉรผse, is the most logged 8a in the database with currently 808 ascents, out of which 70 onsights and 61 flashes. Eliah Georgi has uploaded the picture of the classical route that T Volpiatto put up in 1989.

In total, there are now over 8 million ascents in the database which can guide you to find the best routes and boulders in the world. Click on Explore and start searching the highest quality routes and start planning your next trip.

VL App & 8a.nu Unification: Android Beta Version

We've just reached the next milestone in our endeavor to unify 8a.nu and the Vertical-Life App: the open beta version for Android is now released, and we invite you all to test it and kindly ask for your feedback. Click here to become a beta tester and please send your feedback to [email protected].

The beta version synchronizes the VL and 8a.nu logbooks, all ascent data, and the full outdoor content. All logbooks in the app contain all ascents that were/are added via 8a.nu or the VL app. As an 8a user, you will find all your ascents and your profile on the app. All future ascents you add will show up in the logbook in both places. Note that the current 8a.nu does not display the synced logbook yet. Ascents added via the app in the past will show up with the next web release.

If you encounter major issues that limit the use of the app, you can always leave as a beta tester via the Google Play Store and simply install the latest stable version.

Please be aware that not all features are synchronized between the app and the web yet. The unification of your followers, favorites, ranking, challenges, and galleries will come in future releases.

We are also working on a version for iOS, and this will be available soon.

If you want to use the premium features in the app, you can get the first month of any subscription for free by signing up here and using the code BetaTrial.

Gio Placci completes 4-Lo (8C)
Gio Placci, who did four 9a+' in 2022, has repeated Daniel Woodsโ€™ 4-Low (8C) in Valle Bavona. โ€Soft with the new beta. Three days of tries. Really fun climb.โ€(c) Crimp Films

What was the new beta you used?
The Woodsโ€™ beta was to make the first move with the knee bar. The new beta is to do also the second move with the knee bar.

What is coming up next?
Iโ€™m training for the lead World Cup right now, doing a lot of spray wall. I am really excited for the Lead season. In between I go some days to Bavona. I would like to send Captain Nemo (8C) and Primitivo (8C).

Why did you not compete or log any routes in 2023?
I had a finger tendon injury until September. I could train a bit but avoid crimps. It was the hardest period in my life and now I am so happy to be able to climb and train again. In October, I started to train hard again and step by step get back in shape. I decided with my coach to first build the strength. I came back in shape in about 30 days.

In the last ten weeks, the Italian has also logged five 8B+, including The Story Of 2 Worlds (8C). Noteworthy is also that he finished the competition season 2022 by being #21 in Edinburgh.

โ€œThe first few days I only checked out sections of the route, feeling confident that Iโ€™ll climb it in two weeks... In the end it took me 8 days and I would suggest 9b, as both the 9b+'s I did took me at least twice as long. Very happy to hear what other repeaters will say in the future!โ€

Gergล‘ Vรกlyi ticks Estado Critico (9a)
Gergล‘ Vรกlyi jumps two grades by doing Estado critico (9a) in Siurana. The 19-year-old Hungarian has won six European Youth Cups and has previously sent six 8cโ€™s.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and your trip?
It is my first time in Spain, and I came here with a campervan for a month. My main goal was Estado Critico because I haven't climbed 9a before and I thought, this 35-meter-long endurance climbing would be perfect for me. I needed 7 tries for the send. After the 6th try, when I fell from the last hard move, I knew, I would send it the next day. I am really happy to send one of the king lines of Siurana. And now, in the next weeks, I will try to climb a lot of routes between 8a and 8c, and check the moves in something harder for which I will come back.

What are your 2024 plans?
I will compete on the lead world cups and I really hope to make it to the semifinal and I want to climb more outdoors and climb some more 9a or harder.