5 May 2020
8A+' by Jana Vincourkova
Jana Vincourkova has come back stronger than ever after the lockdown with two 8A+', Rigger in Blansko (video) and the FA of Dab Police in Zelenรก Hora (video)
In 2012, she won a Euro Cup and last year she started climbing again after two years break.
"Since there is the lockdown and I am working from home already for two months. I had/have quite some time to do hang boarding. We have the PUC series and it is way harder than the fixed ones like Beastmaker for example. It improved my core by miles. And finger strength for sure to. A lot of pizza helps as well.
We started to visit less frequented granite areas that offers small crimps, which is the thing that suits me the most. One of them I managed to do in a day only. It is a variation of a 7C+ in a roof where you skip the biggest jug, creating even harder crux-moves in super tiny finger crack. It is really hard to avoid any dabs. It was a project and since I saw it I knew I had to try it, so that is my first 8A+ FA."
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