26 July 2015
18 months finger focus for going from 8b to Action Directe 9a
Matyas Luzan has dedicated the last 18 months to train on replicas of Action Directe in order to jump from 8b to 9a. The flight is booked for September.
- Five years ago I could hold on a finger on a sling but that's it. Mono campusing began in early 2014 and now I can hang four seconds on a 25 mm on one finger.
0 comments
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
Related
In the last 14 months, Matyas Luzan has had some 300 sessions of campusing and doing hard pocket circuits and replicas of Action Directe. Out of 300 tries, he hโฆ
Matyas Luzan has done more than 300 sessions of campusing, doing hard pocket circuits and replicas of Action Directe, during the last 15 months. Lately, he has โฆ
14 September 2015
Matyas Luzan popped his finger on first try on AD
Matyas Luzan, who has spent the last two years training on replicas of Action Directe, did injure himself on the very first hard move he tried on the site in Frโฆ
Related news
In the last 14 months, Matyas Luzan has had some 300 sessions of campusing and doing hard pocket circuits and replicas of Action Directe. Out of 300 tries, he hโฆ
Matyas Luzan has done more than 300 sessions of campusing, doing hard pocket circuits and replicas of Action Directe, during the last 15 months. Lately, he has โฆ
14 September 2015
Matyas Luzan popped his finger on first try on AD
Matyas Luzan, who has spent the last two years training on replicas of Action Directe, did injure himself on the very first hard move he tried on the site in Frโฆ
Favorites
8 June 2026
Janja Garnbret does Bibliographie (9b+)
Janja Garnbret has added another milestone to her remarkable climbing career by becoming the first woman to climb Bibliographie (9b+) in Cรฉรผse, one of the hardeโฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ