26 July 2015

18 months finger focus for going from 8b to Action Directe 9a

Matyas Luzan has dedicated the last 18 months to train on replicas of Action Directe in order to jump from 8b to 9a. The flight is booked for September. - Five years ago I could hold on a finger on a sling but that's it. Mono campusing began in early 2014 and now I can hang four seconds on a 25 mm on one finger.
0 comments
Most commented
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads

Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…

Welcome to Vertical-Life Web

Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…

Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)

William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…

Related
Luzan Matyas is back on the Action Direct 9a track

Matyas Luzan has dedicated almost two years of his climbing life to trying to jump from 8b to Action Direct 9a. This means that just during the last 16 months h…

Luzan Matyas - Jedinečný lezec s jedinečnými metódami

Matyas Luzan je od roku 2014 posadnutý cestou Action Direct 9a a trénuje špecificky len na túto cestu. V roku 2015 ju vyskúšal, no okamžite sa zranil a v roku 2…

Luzan Matyas gets progress for his Action Direct big project

Matyas Luzan has done more than 300 sessions of campusing, doing hard pocket circuits and replicas of Action Directe, during the last 15 months. Lately, he has …