Fanatic Climbing reports that kevin LOPATA has done Jour de Chasse 8C (B+) which Jan Hojer has put up. Last month, Kevin did his first 8C, Misti. "This Wednesday, I succeed in my current project "Jour de chasse" 8C, very hard compared to the other testpiece of the Opium boulder "Mécanique élémentaire". The crux is to go up with the famous undercling of Narcotic to the slopers at the lip at the boulder. You need a very strong body tension for holding the final jug. Wonderful and so physical."

Planet Mountain reports that Tom Ballard has done the FA of A Line Above the Sky at Tomorrow's World in Dolomites, suggesting the first D15 in the world for it. "This is the hardest bit of climbing I have ever done. There are some very big ‘shouldery’ moves, and then you must just keep going for close to 50 metres!" Thanks to Riky Felderer/CAMP for the picture. You can follow him on Instagram, @rikyfelderer

Orbayu from Ananda Media on Vimeo.

James Webb has had another low gravity day in Fontainebleu today. He did Toupie carnivore assis 8B+ and The Big Island 8C. (c) Neil Hart "Climbed the island a few years back. Got the full line on the quick today. Doesn't add much difficulty but def seems the better start. Quality! Back for some tries on the assis soon."

Alberto Rocasolano has just got the first repeat of Catalán Witness the Fitness. The FA of this boulder problem was done by Chris Sharma, who didn't give it an exact grade but commented in this way: "I'm not so sure about the grade but it's something like an 8B/+ into a 8A+ , so whatever that means ;)". After that, Nacho Sánchez was able to link the first part saying that he broke a hold at the crux so it might be 8B+ then. In the end, Beto was the first to repeat the whole line two days ago, suggesting 8C for it. At the Spanish 8a.nu site, we took advantage of his ascent to talk to this guy from Madrid, who is not new to hard grades having repeated Nacho Sánchez's 'Entropia' 8C and also having the FA of 'Soyuz low start' 8C under his belt. What is the most difficult part of this problem? How do the moves feel like? Is it very long?
"The most difficult part is a first section of 7 moves, super bouldery, where I broke a crux hold and made it even more difficult. The second stretch is more like endurance. It's got 17 movements in total." It seems like roofs is a style that fits you well...
"Well, I like everything, either roofs or not." You're running out of difficult rigs... Have you got any other super hard project?
"Now I've got two hard ones: one near home which I found this year and it's one of those that you can retire from climbing if you send it... hahaha...; and, the other will be around 8C+ or 8C/+ for sure and I'm really close to send it... But one needs to send things before bragging about them... hahaha." Would you like to try and eventually send the original 'Witness the Fitness'?
"Just travelling to there and trying it would be a dream made true for me... hahaha."

Based on some 1 600+ unique votes from the poll "Male dream climbing partner": 22 % Chris Sharma 20 % David Graham 13 % Fred Nicole 12 % Adam Ondra 08 % Alex Honnold 07 % James Webb 06 % Alex Megos 03 % Jan Hojer 10 % Other (Dani Andrada, Nalle Hukkataival and Daniel Woods mentioned most often)

The Ledge Podcast has made an interview with Chris Sharma, where our legend talks about his vision for his gym to become an international climbing meeting point for everyone coming to Barcelona before they go rock climbing in Catalonia, He seems to think he has too many bolted projects and at least one of them is harder than La Dura Dura 9b+, which he already has spent some time on. He thinks that he can do harder routes but he does not know if he wants it as it takes so much commitment. Patxi Usobiaga is moving to Barcelona and they have been discussing if also Chris should try training hard for a period. Regarding Olympics, Chris is really straightforward. Although he is positive for climbing to make it into the Olympics, he disapproves of the format. "The format that I have heard about I am not so happy about. Combining the three format is a big shame!"

Charles Albert, who did the FA of the L'Alchimiste left exit last week, considered to be harder than the 8C right exit, did it today twice. (c) Neil Hart did get it on video both times. "He is so strong he made it look like a 6A. I picked him up at one o'clock and we did a very quick 7B that took two tries and we drove to the L'alchimiste. He just pulled on and fell three times on the crux then sent it, then climbed it again so we could get another angle. It is easier for him bare foot because he can hook his toes into the side pulls better. Definitely a new level!"

Little Schmetterling from H2M images on Vimeo.