Alex Megos does a 9a in UK on his 12th try, 8th try of the day
Alex Megos reported on Facebook yesterday, "Sent "Northern Lights" 9a today at Kilnsey after falling off 7 times at my crux move about 2 thirds up the route." He gave it 4 tries the Wednesday before, when conditions weren't optimal. The day before he had done two 8c+'s and the day after he did another 8c+ and an 8c. How is it even possible to combine world class performances of the two extremes: maximum power doing the four moves Hubble and later turning into an endurance machine? Maybe a part of the answer is the quality of the routes, - I really have to say, those routes here at Kilnsey are world class routes. There are not many places I've been to with such amazing routes!!! (c) Daniela Ebler Interview with Alex Megos on UKC

8B+/C FA by Dai Koyamada (39)
Dai Koyamada, who has been one of the leading climbers over the last 20 years, reports on Instagram that he has put up yet another great line. "Miracle happened! Last night I did it! So glad to established this line which I found last June and dream to send. Definitely this is the one of my best FAs ever. Tentatively V14/15. Hope anyone else evaluate it. Name, it's 'NEHANNA'.

Oriane Bertone Euro Boulder Champion
France's Oriane Bertone, last year's World Cup winner, is the new European Bouldering Champion. France dominated the competition, placing three climbers in the โ€ฆ
Maximillian Milne Euro Boulder Champion
Maximillian Milne struck gold in Barcelona, improving on the European Boulder Championship silver he claimed two years ago. The 25-year-old Brit has also previoโ€ฆ
8B (A+) flash by Thilo Schrรถter in Rocklands
Thilo Schrรถter has flashed Monkey Business 8B (A+), which actually was put up by Dave Graham as an 8B+. Asking Thilo how much beta he got, his ascent gets more impressive as he only had the holds pointed out by Martin Mobrรฅten, who did it in 2014. - It was just another day trying a new boulder for me. I always try to flash any boulder I try, not because I care that much, but why not really. One only has one flash attempt and besides that it's good comp training! I knew that I could flash it if I didn't make any mistakes, and I didn't. That feeling of flawless climbing on intuition is pretty sweet, so I was definitely happy!

8a onsight by Angie Scarth-Johnson (12)
Angie Scarth-Johnson, who did her first 8c this spring being 11-years-old, has done another four 8a's in Margalef, one out of which she onsighted: Pollastre de Granja. The Australian is in Europe on a four month trip being home scholed. Here is an 8a INTERVIEW from last month.

Sport climbing is very close to the Olympic games 2020 in Tokyo
Olympic.org reports that today the International Olymic Committe (IOC) supported the proposal to include five new sports, sport climbing among them, to the programme of the Olympic Games 2020 in Tokyo. The final decision will be made in Rio de Janeiro in early August. IFSC has suggested a Combined format where 20 male and female will compete for one set of medals based on who is best overall in Speed, Boulder and Lead altogether. In should be noted that many of the best climbers have been extremely critical towards the suggested concept, including both Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra.

The Wheel of Life 9a (8C) by Alex Barrows
Alex Barrows has done The Wheel of Life in Grampians, which is a 70 moves horizontal endurance testpiece that Dai Koyamada put up as an 8C+ in 2004. Alex, who is on a 7.5 months road trip after getting his PHD, chose to give it a route grade of 9a, which seems to be the consensus grade to 8C nowadays. Interesting, the endurance master who has done Era Vella 9a before, says soft 8B+ would have been his boulder grade. Full story in his well written blog (c) Ella Rusell

Cathy Wagner has done Mr Benjoin 8b in Verdon, which shows that she is at her peak being 50 years old. In total she has done 647 routes 8a and harder, 60 out of which in last year. Would it not be nice if the grand lady could inspire us all by doing her first 8b+ this year?

Alex Megos does Hubble 8c+ (9a)
UKC reports that Alex Megos has done Hubble, which Ben Moon set up in 1990 as an 8c+. It has been repeated four times and none of the repeaters have suggested 9a for it. However, as many strong climbers like Ondra, Graham and McColl have tried it without success the media have started to speculate whether it should be upgraded to 9a. In fact, UKC actually says that, "it's regarded as the first 9a in the world." - 8c+, 9a+ or 8b+. Who cares?! It's the name that counts! And the name is HUBBLE! It's a piece of history! Thanks @ben_moon for putting up that thing and for having a vision! A vision for hear is possible, the next step! Pic @dave_heaton