The Anatomy of Bouldering - Part 1: Height from Frischluft on Vimeo.

Sebastien BOUIN, who previously has done over 20 routes 9a, half of them FAs, has done Definicion de la resistencia démocrata for which he gives a personal 9a grade. "Finish the job is important! Even if you are close, you have to stay focus. Sometime is the more important." The 23 year old French has previously suggested personal down grades for six former 9a to 9b+' included some very famous ones. (c) Jonas Wiklund

Moe's Valley by Lorenz Ulmer od 45degrees na Vimeu.

L. Matyas - Moonboard [from 8A to 8B] od L. Matyasa na Vimeu.

Pure Cape Town Bouldering od BlocApes na Vimeu.

Matyas Luzan je od roku 2014 posadnutý cestou Action Direct 9a a trénuje špecificky len na túto cestu. V roku 2015 ju vyskúšal, no okamžite sa zranil a v roku 2016 roztrhol lezečku pri skúšaní novej sekvencie so založením špičky. V súčasnosti trénuje 10 hodín denne, väčšinou lezie ťažké bouldre na Moonboarde, potom nasleduje rest day. Video, kde Luzán lezie bouldre do 8B na Moonboarde. "Jednoducho som 10 hodín na stene a snažím sa z toho vyťažiť maximum. Čo vám poviem, milujem to. Popravde je to o prekonávaní bolesti, no teraz to už nie je také dramatické, ako to môže vyznievať. Je to zábava, liezť s druhými a tak." Jeho ďalším plánom je začať znovu trénovať na svojej replike Action Direct. V Máji sa tento Rumun, ktorého doterajší najlepší prelez je 8b, plánuje vrátiť do Frankenjury a squatovať pod Action Direct, usadiť sa tam a čakať na najlepšie podmienky. Čo sa týka nového softvéru, používa ho v strednej časti cesty hneď pred ťažkým bouldrom a vykladá v ňom špičku až nad hlavu. Následne na nej visí cca 15 sekúnd, počas ktorým si cvakne, namádžuje a nachystá sa na ťažký fix, vďaka ktorému však preskočí jednoprstovú dierku vpravo (na obrázku červeným). "Je to jednoduchší softvér, *AK* máš silu vo fixe a si rozťahaný" Interview pre 8a z roku 2015.

Moe's Valley by Lorenz Ulmer from 45degrees on Vimeo.

L. Matyas - Moonboard [from 8A to 8B] from L. Matyas on Vimeo.

Pure Cape Town Bouldering from BlocApes on Vimeo.

Matyas Luzan has been obsessed with Action Directe since the beginning of 2014 and hsa only trained for this route. In 2015, he tried it and got injured immediately. In 2016, he destroyed his shoe once working out a new toe-hook sequence. Nowadays, he is training 10 hours per day mainly just doing boulders on the Moonboard followed by a rest day. Video doing Moonboard's up to 8B. "I just spend 10h in the gym and try to give it my best. What can I say, I love it. Honestly it's just getting through the pain but it's not so dramatic as it sounds now. It's fun, climbing with others and such." His plan is to soon start working on the AD replica again. In May, the Romanian with 8b as personal best, plans to go back to Frankenjura, living dirtbag life under AD, preparing and waiting for the best conditions. In regards the new beta, it is in the middle where he just before the crux, does a toe-hook over his head. He hangs there for some 15 seconds clipping, chalking and doing a very deep lock off, skipping the crux right mono, see right circle in the picture. "This is an easier sequence *IF* you have lock off strength and mobility." 8a interview from 2015