In 1994, Alex Huber put up Weisse Rose in Schleier Wasserfalle as an 8c+, which was based on Action Directe being 8c+. In a recent interview he says, "Today, the grade of “Weisse Rose” is definitely 9a+," making it the first in the world (see picture). In fact, three of his hardest routes have all been upgraded and only repeated by Adam Ondra. Huber says that it was in 1995 after the 9b proposal for Akira by Fred Rouhling that grades started to become softer. In 2003, Bernabe Fernandez put up Chilam Balam as a 9b+, which Huber questioned, "I cannot take Bernabé's proposal seriously as I can't see any references that would demonstrate his skills of climbing at such a high level -- far above the rest of the world," for which he was criticized for. Now we know he was right. He also said that La Rambla original does not add so much difficulty in comparison to his first anchor 8c+. He was questioned again, but now we know he was right, and his variation is now considered 9a. In fact, he said back then that due to grade inflation, most of the hardest old-school routes need to get upgraded. As of 2017, we know that Alex Huber was both ahead of his time when it comes to climbing and understanding the grade system. This includes his world class FA big walls and having done the hardest solo route in the history: The Communist 8b+ in 2004. It is time to say that he is one of the very best and most influential climbers in the world!

Thilo Jeldrik Schröter sa v posledných rokoch neskutočne zlepšil, hlavne čo sa týka bouldrov prelezených štýlom Flash. Len počas posledných štyridsiatich dní si tento nórsky lezec zapísal štyri flashnuté 8A a dve 8A+, čo ho stavia na prvé miesto v hodnotení flash prelezov. Budúci týždeň bude Thilo súťažiť vo svetovom pohári. (c) Tina Hafsaas - Tea with Elmarie 8A+ in Rocklands. "Myslím si, že moje zlepšenie vo flashoch je len odrazom celkového zlepšenia a zosilnenia. Vždy som mal rád výzvu, ktorá prichádza s flashovaním, takže som ju jednoducho vyhľadával a nacvičil si ju. Jedinou vecou, ktorá odlišuje dobrého flashistu od dobrého lezca je mentálna stránka veci. Samozrejme musíš mať pred flashom motiváciu boulder preliezť a vedieť kroky. Dávať do toho príliš veľa energie je však pre mňa kontraproduktívne. Keďže 99% flahových pokusov v bouldroch, ktoré sú na hranici tvojho maxima končí neúspechom, nevidím význam v tom dávať tomu viac ako pozrieť si jedno-dve videá a poriadne si očistiť chyty. Iba by to zničilo moju radosť z lezenia. A radosť je predsa kľúčom k úspechu."

Jakob Kronberger, who did his first 9a when he was 14 years old, has done his fourth at that grade: Hantilio in Drachenwald. "The route is located near Salzburg on a big wall called Drachenwand. Klem Loskot made the first acent in 1996. Since then it was only repeated once. It took me over 20 days and I have never invested more time in a project. I am really excited for the next weeks and if I get really good conditions it might not take long for the next project to go. I do have some projects I want to climb in the future. Most of them are around 8c+ and some even harder. Maybe I'll be able to make the step to 9a+ this year and if I do, I won't hesitate to go for it.

Sveits mars 2017 from martin mobraten on Vimeo.

Alexander Rohr has done his third 9a by Pirmin Bertle's Chromosome Y 9a in Charmey. In the Combined ranking, the 21 year old, who clearly seems to have stepped up one level this year, is #9. "Amazing route and very very powerful!!! Another one which I tried last year and I was pretty far from success. Now just two days and it went down... In terms of the grade it's very hard to say. I got much stronger but I don't know how much... So I think it's for sure 8c+ or an easy 9a.... Anyway.... Such a good one on very beautiful limestone!!!"

Sveits mars 2017 od Martina Mobratena na Vimeu.

UKC prichádza so správou, že Mike Adams vyliezol dve nové 8C v oblasti Far Eastern Limestone. Prvým je "poriadny sit start" k jeho problému Bordello, ktorý sa nachádza v Earth Quarry, ďalším je boulder Serenation 8C v sektore Impossible Roof. Mike doteraz vyliezol štyri 8Cčká. "Odkedy som tieto dve línie preliezol, zdá sa mi, že som trochu upustil od lezenia ťažkých vecí. No nebolo to úplne mojim zámerom. Momentálne mám pocit, že moja rodina trpí tým, že som toľko času venoval lezeniu a tréningu, takže chcem s nimi tráviť viac času, hlavne s mojim synom, ktorý sa ma neustále pýta, či môžeme ísť spolu liezť. Láme mi srdce povedať mu nie, no musím, keďže sa mi pri ňom ťažko sústredí."

The Boulder World Cup 2017 starts in Switzerland (7/4) (with 190 registered athletes), followed by two events: one in China and another in Japan. The fifth stage is in the USA (10/6) which is followed by India (24/6). As usual, the final event takes place in Munich (18/8). In previous years, only a dozen male and female competitors have participated in all events; however, this year has seen a record number of travelers. It is difficult to predict a winner without knowing who will complete the entire circuit, but it is safe to assume that the Japanese domination in the men competitions will continue; they will send ten guys to the first event. Jan Hojer, Jongwon Chon, Jernej Kruder, and the Russians will most likely make the top-10 list. Domen Skofic has an outside chance as well; he plans to compete at all of the events. Among the females, Shauna Coxey is the favorite; she is challenged first by Janja Garnbret and the Japanese team. Megan Mascarenas and Margo Hayes should also be up there if they decide to do all of the comps. The same goes for Anna Stöhr, Stasa Gejo, Fanny Gibert, and Petra Klingler. Who do you think will win and who are the outsiders?

Fontainebleau 2017 • Four 8's in the Forest from Eliot Stephens on Vimeo.