Ida Schwenk ticks Mondo Frizzante (8A+)
Ida Schwenk, a 30-year-old Italian teacher with two 8A ascents to her name, has successfully climbed Mondo Frizzante (8A+) at Monte Amiata.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
The line was first climbed by Paolo Vangi and is a variation of Mondo Bastardo, a beautiful and famous 8b, with which it shares the first part of the boulder. Even if this area is quite close, I had never tried to approach this line because I always thought it was too hard for me. About a month ago I went with a friend who wanted to try Mondo Bastardo and so, a bit for fun, I also tried the first moves. Immediately I felt it doable, even if very hard... but the next day, as often happens with hard boulders, I could not do even one move! Two weeks later I decided to try the boulder again and in the space of three tries I found myself on top of the rock. Saying that it was unexpected is an understatement!

Can you describe your climbing background?
I started climbing when I was 10, in Venice, not exactly a city famous for its mountains! After trying different sports I immediately understood that climbing was the right thing for me and over time it became much more than a simple sport. Initially I took part in many youth competitions, even entering the Italian youth national team for several years. I had a lot of fun and after moving to Florence for university I tried again to take part in some senior Italian boulder cups. In the meantime I started working as a teacher in primary school, which takes up a lot of my time and doesn't always allow me to climb as much as I would like. In recent years I have totally dedicated myself to rockclimbing, I have realized that it is the thing that makes me feel better and that makes me happy! I try to climb as much as I can and to visit as many places as possible, appreciating every boulder regardless of the grade. If the line is beautiful, I want to climb it!

Cadance Hurt does No More Greener Grasses (8A+)
Cadance Hurt, with two 8Aโ€™s under her belt, has sent No More Greener Grasses (8A+) in Mount Blue Sky. โ€First day this season oh my godddd.โ€

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Iโ€™ve put two small sessions into No More Greener Grasss (one in 2023 and one in 2024) without ever having been able to stick moves, but today I was able to send within an hour with perfect temps and the perfect crew. After months dealing with a torn pulley, self doubt and other sporadic injuries it was so rewarding.

What is your climbing background?
Iโ€™ve been climbing since I was eight in Colorado (competitively and outside) and work as an elite coach as well. I grew up inspired by all the women capable of sending 8A+ and it always seemed like a reach to accomplish it myself, so this send is meaningful is so many ways.

Andrew Nimmer does Martial Law (9a+)
Andrew Nimmer, with six 8c+โ€™ under his belt, has completed Martial Law (9a+) in Mt. Charleston. โ€What a dream come true!! Felt so good to finally clip the chains. Shoutout to everyone who encouraged and supported me on this mission.โ€ (c) Rachel Melville

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
Climbing something of this difficulty has long been a dream of mine. I moved from Wisconsin to Las Vegas three and a half years ago seeking access to hard sport climbs and a year-round outdoor season. If I wanted to be serious about sending 5.15 or sending at my limit, Vegas was the place to do it.

I first sent the original start โ€œArrested Developmentโ€ 8c+ in 2023. I briefly tried Martial Law until Mt. Charleston closed for the year due to flooding. In 2024, I worked it for most of the summer and started getting really excited when I began to feel like I might actually be able to send it. I stagnated for a bit, having a hard time breaking through to actual close red point attempts. Eventually, I got really close to sending before leaving for a trip right as the fall temps were rolling in. When I returned, the season was over. Thankfully, I felt really strong on it right away this spring and sent it before the summer temps hit. The redpoint go was quite the fight which made for a satisfying send. Clipping the chains really felt like a dream come true.

This send was special to me because it really feels like I couldnโ€™t have done it without my friends and community. I received so much encouragement and kind words which helped me overcome my doubts. I even had to level up my knee bar skills with some coaching from Joe Kinder (who equipped the route) and using Bill Ramseyโ€™s knee pad. Friends of mine would also come out just to belay and support which made all the difference.

What do you think is the main reason for you stepping up your game?
This project definitely pushed me to take my entire approach more seriously, from training, to diet and recovery. Also, focusing on sport climbing for consecutive seasons instead of flip flopping between sport and bouldering seemed to help.

What is coming up next?
Iโ€™m itching to get back to bouldering later this year. First I would like to try to climb more 8b+ to 9a while I have the fitness. Around Vegas and in Rifle.

Radek Votocek sends Hantillio (9a)
Radek Votocek, who during the last two months has completed his first three 9aโ€™s, has sent Hantillio (9a) in Drachenwand. โ€Epic fight! Had to dig really deep on the last few moves! Perfect power endurance test piece from Klem Loskot.โ€

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Hantillio 9a climbs through the big overhang of the Dragon Cave, with the crux being a powerful, dynamic move to the lip of the roof. It requires a precise catch of a small edge. I was lucky to stick the edge fairly early on. :-) Really looking forward to coming back to Drachenwand in the beautiful Salzkammergut lake region!

Lorenzo Bogliacino ticks Narcissus (9a)
Lorenzo Bogliacino, with four 9a+โ€™ under his belt, has done Narcissus (9a) in Erboristeria. In the VL ranking game, the Italian is #13. The picture is from Naturalmente (9a+).

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
First of all, I have to thank Matteo Gambaro for the vision in bolting and releasing such a beast! I returned to the Erboristeria sector somewhat casually after a few years. I used to climb there a lot back in the day, when I was younger and climbed all the routes up to 8b. At the time, I felt too weak to tackle the most challenging lines in that physical style across the entire roof.

Over the years, my climbing style has evolved a lot. Iโ€™ve gained some weight (around 7โ€“8 kilos), and now I feel much more confident on roofs and overhanging walls. Last but not least, Iโ€™ve really improved my kneebar skills! On the first day, I managed to do all the moves, but unfortunately, on the second day, I broke a big key hold in the first boulder section. It stayed intact in my hands, so I called Matteo, who decided to try and reinforce it to preserve the route in its original state.

After a couple of days working on the second part of the route, last Wednesday, on my fifth day, in terrible conditions at 8 p.m., and a bit tired after nine days of work in a row, I managed to send the route! In the final section, I chose to use the easier beta like Bouin and Ondra, which felt more logical to me, but Iโ€™d like to come back and try the original finish, as Matteo did!

Anak Verhoeven does Rainshadow (9a)
Anak Verhoeven has done Rainshadow (9a) in Malham. The Belgian ranks among the most successful female lead competition climbers. She reached the finals in 36 consecutive World Cup events and stood on the podium 19 times. However, she stepped away from competition in 2019 due to injuries. After making a full recovery in 2021, she chose to dedicate herself entirely to outdoor rock climbing. During her competitive career, she climbed around a dozen routes graded 8c+ to 9a+, and since retiring from comps, the now 28-year-old has added another dozen routes graded between 9a and 9b. (c) Neil Gresham

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
Back in November of last year, I had spent one day at Malham Cove and had quickly touched some of the holds in the crux of Rainshadow. It looked like a great project to come back for, so thatโ€™s what I did this spring!

The weather was great with lovely, sunny weather, but that meant that the climbing days were short because the route only got in the shade in the late afternoon. I worked the route on and off for a few weeks, because I spent quite some time away from my project; visiting people and climbing in other places. There was a nasty undercut in the crux that hurt the joints of my left ring finger which meant that I could only try that move a few times every climbing day (the hardest move of the route for me). I had plenty of rest days and climbed with a lot of tape to make sure I wouldnโ€™t get injured. After having found all my beta, I climbed the route on May 9th in my 5th redpoint attempt. What a line! Iโ€™m very grateful for this send.

Pierre Shankland ticks his first two 9aโ€™s
Pierre Shankland has repeated Matteo Soulรฉโ€™s Trois pattes dans la chouffe (9a) and Chouffe qui plรขtre (9a) in Gorges Du Tarn, after having projected them during four trips. (c) Pierre Coutn

Can you tell us more about the ascents?
This summer was my first time in Les Gorges du Tarn, where I sent โ€œ3 pattes dans le plรขtreโ€ (8c), which is the first part of Trois pattes dans la chouffe (9a) and shares its finish with Chouffe qui plรขtre (9a) โ€”two beautiful new routes that Matteo Soulรฉ had recently opened. They both climb an amazing roof in the โ€œAmphithรฉรขtreโ€ sector and cross each other in a really cool way.

I came back in October and started working on Chouffe qui plรขtre. It begins with a long, physical 8b+ traversing the entire roof, then hits a tricky crux (around 7B+ boulder) before linking into the end of the 8c. I had three more short trips in February, April, and May. And on Wednesday this week, after 17 sessions and countless tries, I finally sent it!

With that ticked off, I decided to try โ€œ3 pattes dans la Chouffeโ€ the next day. Since I already knew the first part (the 8c) perfectly and all the holds in the crux (which is the same as the other 9a, but reversed), I managed to send it quickly. To me, it felt a little easier than Chouffe qui plรขtre. My friend Antoine Maire, who also climbed it, and I used a slightly different beta than Matteo for the crux. Thatโ€™s why I suggested 9a for Chouffe qui plรขtre and maybe 8c+/9a or solid 8c+ for 3 pattes dans la Chouffe. Anyway, Iโ€™m really psyched about the trip. Huge shoutout to Matteo for the first ascents and the vision.

What is your climbing background?
I started climbing when I was a kid with my dad, who did a lot of mountaineering. During my youth, I mostly focused on competitions, but over time I grew more into outdoor climbing. These days, Iโ€™m still training for some comps but I also climb a lot in Fontainebleau and head south of France whenever I can.

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