Tom Bolger - Victima Perez od MadSkillz Media na Vimeu.

Tom Bolger - Victima Perez from MadSkillz Media on Vimeo.

Felipe Camargo, who two months ago won 35 000 USD in a Neflix "Ninja Warrior" show, has done his first 9a+, Papichulo in Oliana. Chris Sharma made the FA in 2008 and the Brazilian got it's 17th ascent. (c) Lena Drapella "I worked the route six weeks last year and seven days this trip. Trained a lot of endurance and tried to set my traverses in the gym with similar amount of hard moves, resistance and boulders. Like 28 moves to the first bad rest, then a 12 move boulder, better rest and then 40 endurance moves to the top. I never worked so hard or wanted anything as bad as I wanted this route!"

Janja Garnbret, the Lead overall winner in 2017, was superior in the Boulder World Cup in Chongqing, winner of all three rounds and topping all 13 boulders in a superior style. Runner up was Shauna Coxsey who overall did ten boulders. Among the males, Jongwon Chon #4 in the Boulder World Cup last year, won both the semifinal and the final and in fact he had to do the final boulder twice as he misunderstood how to top out in his first try. 1. Janja Garnbret SLO 4t11 4b7 - Jongwon Chon KOR 4t6 4b5 2. Shauna Coxsey GBR 3t4 4b5 - Tomoa Narasaki JPN 2t2 3b3 3. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 3t13 4b13 - Aleksei Rubtsov RUS 2t2 3b3 Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke

Philipp Gaßner, who did his first 8c+ when he was 14 years old, has done his second, Pain makes me stronger, every day! in Frankenjura. "The route fits my style pretty well because it's short and bouldery with pockets. I just needed a few tries to stick the crux move that is a little dyno to a good pocket and to send the whole route. After my finger injury in 2016 I want to climb outside as much as possible. In summer my plan is to travel to Rocklands and the psyche is already high so let's see."

gregor vezonik, who was #31 in the first Boulder WC in 2017 and who has done more than ten 8B boulders, has done his first 9a, Aikula in Burjakove peci which is his local home crag. (c) Rok Klancnik "The line was bolted 20 years ago by my uncle and Uros Perko got the FA. Then some holds broke and then Domen Skopfic did it two years ago. I tried it for the first time six years ago as a joke. Then a couple of times later. Started working seriously on it three years ago and almost sent it two years ago when I was trying it with Domen. Last year I probably had four sessions on it and this year I did it on my second session. It has been an incredible journey and feels good to finally tick it off."

Janja Garnbret az összesített győztese a 2016-os nehézségi világkupa sorozatnak (és második boulderben), most egyértelművé tette: nem sikerült rosszul a téli felkészülés, nyugodjunk meg csak az antistyle boulderek és balszerencse találkozását láthattuk az április eleji svájci bouldervilágkupán, amikor #6. helyezést sikerült elhozni. Janja fölényes győzelme valamit sejtetni látszik abból, hogy Ondra után a nőknél is lehet egy olyan sportoló aki boulderben és kötelesben is el tudja kenni adott évben az aktuális világ élmezőnyt, ne adj isten megnyerheti az összesített világkupát is mindkét versenyágban. De mit szól majd ehhez Ashima? Egyelőre semmit. Férfiak között Jongwon Chon szuperált, aki megnyerte a középdöntőt és döntőt is. Lehet hogy az önfényezés és önünneplés dicsfénye helyett kicsit jobban kellene figyelni a szabályokra, az egyik döntős utat kétszer kellett másznia, mert félreértette a Toppolást. Bár emellett az eredmény mellett ez bőven belefért. amit viszont egyértelműen ki lehet jelenteni az a japán egyeduralom. A férfiaknál a középdöntő 20 résztvevőjéből 10 Japán versenyző.... 1. Janja Garnbret SLO 4t11 4b7 - Jongwon Chon KOR 4t6 4b5 2. Shauna Coxsey GBR 3t4 4b5 - Tomoa Narasaki JPN 2t2 3b3 3. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 3t13 4b13 - Aleksei Rubtsov RUS 2t2 3b3 Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke

Japan participated with ten males in the Boulder WC in Chongqing in China and all of them were Top-17. In practice this meant that several of the top guys did not make it to the semifinal; McColl, Gelmanov, Sharafutdinov, Stranik, Bonder, Kurder, Skofic and Levier. (c( Eddie Fowke Now the females do their qualification, follow the digital results. On Sunday there will be live-streaming starting with the semi at 09.30 and the final at 18.00 GMT+8.