8C FA by Cรฉsar Quero
Djdieifjrj Djdueirur has done the FA of Parรกlisis Espรกstica 8C in Navalosa, Spain. (C) Nice pic from Isa Barrero on La valse aux audiex 8B in Font. "Crimpy traverse + exit boulder. 12 movs. Perfect conditions of wind and cold. 3 months :)" This is his second 8C after the first repeat of Soyuz Low 8C FAd by Beto Rocasolano.

Asia dominated girls U-17 at the YWC
Seven of the eight finalists in the Youth U-17 Lead World Championships in Arco were from Asia. Japan's Arisa Hayashi claimed the gold medal, adding another worโ€ฆ
Japan dominated boys U-17 in Arco
Kazuki Nakata of Japan won all three rounds at the U-17 World Championships, while two of his teammates also finished in the top four. Overall, all six of the tโ€ฆ
During the European Championship in Campitello, many lead climbers tried competing in Speed, in the international senior arena, for the first time. Michael Piccolruaz and Jan Hojer impressed with 7.98 and 8.43 respectively. Also Petra Klingler's 11.27 put her half way to Tokyo. Sean McColl has been the only top climber who has done Speed events and because of that, many have said he is the favorite to win the Olympic gold but in fact his best time ever is 8.83. Other than that Jakob Schubert got 10.23, Jernej Kruder 10.55, Domen Skofic 13.32 and Janja Garnbret 13.53. It should be mentioned that Stefano Ghisolfi did 7.98 when he was the Italian Champion but he will start training and competing in Speed later. Overall, it was really strange to watch the non-Speed climbers, beside the first three mentioned, as they disappeared from the camera screen which was following the often double as fast real Speed climber. Further more, the new false start rule including some falls made almost a quarter of the duel finals lose all the excitement. To put it mildly, it will be very strange for the non-climbing spectators to see that the potential Olympic gold medal will possibly climb 30 % or more slower than the world record at 5.48. Read also about the dumbest rule ever in the right column. 1. Iuliia Kaplina RUS - Marcin Dzienski POL 2. Anna Tsyganova RUS - Danyil Boldyrev UKR 3. Elena Remizova RUS - Stanislav Kokorin RUS Complete results Overall, Russia had five male in Top-9 and all Top-5 female were from Russia.

ECH Finalists live streaming 20.45
FEMALE: VERHOEVEN, GARNBRET, MARKOVIC, PILZ, ROMAIN, POSCH, ARC and ROGORA Live-streaming starts 20.45 MALE: DESGRANGES, ONDRA, JOANNES, SCHUBERT, BOMBARDI, LEHMANN, SKOFIC AND PUMAN Complete results Check out more great pics by Eddie Fowke who reports that Janja topped but ran out of time. His favorite to win is Adam and Anak or Janja. If they both are tied in the finals, Anak will win as Janja timed out.

The best competition climber during the last 15 years, Ramon Julian Puigblanque, was just #55 in the Lead European Championship. Other than that, all the big names, but Sebastian Halenke who was #35, made it through to the semifinal. Complete results

Third 8B by Alex Puccio in June
Alex Puccio, who was fourth in the Vail World Cup, has done her third 8B during the last four weeks, Evil Backwards in Mt Evans. "Have wanted to check this boulder out for a bit now. Psyched I was able to send it in one session! Definitely harder the shorter you are.... big moves with really far feet for the crux! Had to try hard!" Measuring competitions and rock, she is together with Anna Stรถhr and Shauna Coxsey contending for being the best female boulder the last five years. In June she also won Bend Summer Comp, done her first trad multi-pitch and turned 28. "I'm not a big fan of posting glamour shots and such, but today is my B-Day and my good friend @xoxonaomiii posted this picture of me.