Adam Ondra - it takes a lot to do 9c
Training Beta has made a great one hour interview with Adam Ondra focusing on what it takes to do 9c; Physical training, physiotherapist, relaxation, speed, kneebars with calf focus, diet, visualization and being happy. This just might the most in-depth training interview ever done with Adam.

Amalie Kรคgi wins gold in Arco
Amalie Kรคgi, who flashed all five problems in the qualification round, won gold in the girls' U-17 boulder event. With her fifth-place finish in Lead as well, tโ€ฆ
Kazuki Nakata gets the double in Arco
Team Japan got another gold at the Youth World Championships in Arco when Kazuki Nakata won the U-17 in Boulder, his second gold after also winning in Lead. In โ€ฆ
8c+ in Flatanger by Paige Claassen
Paige Claasen reports on Facebook that she has done Odin's Eye 8c+ in Flatanger, after some ten days of projecting. On the picture from Trainingbeta she is on the, "burly undercling sequence that I struggled to link even from the hang. Paige, who was #14 in the Bouldering World Championship in 2007, has previously done Just do it 8c (+). So it seems she very well knows how to handle both 3D climbing as well wall climbing at crimpers. More info at her website On her Instagram she has added, Now I can move on to my secondary project of trash cleanup around the crag - the global climbing community should be embarrassed by all the trash that is tucked beneath that talus field. We're all to blame, as it's easy to accidentally leave things behind, but c'mon folks. We can definitely do a better job to keep our crags trash free!

First 8c+ by Iuri Reusa (43)
Iuri Reusa has done his first 8c+, L'extremacura plus in Gravere. On the picture is also his coach and his two sons, Michele (10) and Matteo (9), who have already done 7c+ respectively 7c on top rope. (c) Marco Guidotti "I started to climb twenty years ago. After one year I was able to climb my first 8a. In the next years I climbed without regularity and without a specific training. Three years ago I started to climb more seriously because my sons had started to climb and mostly I started to train with the help of my brother, who is my personal coach. I think that my improvement was made possible also for the opening in my city of a beautiful climbing gym, Kuota, where I train often. Last year I was able to climb my first 8c and after numerous 8b and 8b+ in a few attempts my coach recommended me to try to break my limits. After five days of attempts I was able to climb it. My goal for the future is try to send "TCT" a famous route in Gravere opened by Stefano Ghisolfi and graded 9a.

9a+ and 9a FAs by Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra reports on Instagram that he has done a 9a+ FA in Flatanger, which starts from Thor's Hammer 1, 9a (+). The 80 meter link up makes for a new 9b+ project. ( c) Bernando Gimenez On his way home, Adam stopped in Hell, a small village just located by Trondheim airport, where he did the FA of Hello 9a. In total the 24 year old, has now done 134 routes 9a and harder. The runner up, Alex Megos, has done almost half as many.

Paul Robinson VS Jeremy Fullerton in the very first episode of Moon PIG

8C+ by Daisuke Ichimiya
Daisuke Ichimiya has done his first 8C+ by repeating Daniel Woods' Creature from the black lagoon in RMNP and is #3 in the ranking game. "I took seven days. 3rd and 4th move was hard for me, so I trained to pull up on those holds! I also practiced many other moves and the knee bar." (c) Chikara Ishizuka The Japanese man, who has been in Colorado for 40 days, says the environment is so good with all these strong climbers has three more days and hopes to do some more hard stuff. Once back, he might start competing again.

Lucas de Jesรบs: "We need to push the youngsters for Tokyo 2020"
University student (although candidate to firefighter if his diopters don't get increase), Lucas de Jesรบs is one of the young spanish crushers that send 9a's. After a successful summer in Rodellar, he answers some questions about his workday routine to send his first 9a. (C) Guillermo Domรญnguez Looks like 2017 is your year, isn't it? I think that 2017 is the most I have ever climbed. I moved to study in Huesca last September and since February I have been climbing 4-5 days per week. I almost stop with the gym just to be focused outdoors and climb everywhere. During the summer I've been working in Rodellar and I could climb everytime I wasn't working. Did you clearly think to climb a 9a when you started climbing of was it just 'accidental'? I couldn't believe it. Two years ago I was still talking with my friends about 9a's as something out of our range. It was something big and I never had the courage to try once. This suited me and it was just be stubborn and persistent. What about Olympics, do you fancy? I love the idea about the climbing scene into the Olympics because it will bring many advantages to this sport, but the format is a mistake because in Speed there will be not seen anybody climbing that 15m wall in 6 seconds, and the same in Boulder and Lead. Can you imagine a non-disciplines athletic championships where a guy like Usain Bolt is out of the final cause he wasn't good in marathon? Maybe is excessive, but in many ways is the same. And of course that I would like to go, but I think that I will watch it on TV.. I'm realistic and I know it will not happen because in Spain there are a lot of climbers with a level above mine and in addition they're focused on it. We need to push the youngsters for Tokyo 2020."