The Power of the Psych - Nathaniel Coleman from Petzl-sport on Vimeo.

Dai Koyamada, one of the leading climbers the last twenty years, reports on Instagram that he has done a new 8C FA in Yakushima. The 41 year old has in total opened close to 30 boulders graded 8C and in this category he is rather superior.

Maria Sperl started climbing slowly being being a single mother 30 years old and it changed her life. The last two years she got more time and she just did her second 8b, Morci in Leonidio. "In the 20-ies I did a lot of training in the gym and I think this was a good prevention for climbing regarding injuries and I had also a bit body power and power in the arms. I started to climb with my little sister at our small home crags. We didn't have any experience with the handling and we didn't do any climbing course and afterwords I'm happy, that I didn't get injured seriously. When I started climbing, I could not spend much time in climbing because my little son needed my time. But I was so psyched because of that sport- it changed my life during the years essentially. The last two years I got more and more time for climbing- so I could make progress every year. Climbing in different spots, different rock types and going on holidays for longer now is a privilege for me and makes me stronger by every trip. I'm still learning a lot regarding training, mental and technical aspects. Last year I climbed first 8b. So I'm getting more and more confidence to do harder routes."

Adam Ondra has onsighted Combinazione 8c in Pontebrolla which might not be so newsworthy as it was his 79th onsight 8c to 9a. However, 8c onsights in the climbing community are very rare. Most probably, the 24 year old Czech has onsighted at least two thirds of all 8c ever been onsighted and for 8c+ and harder his ascents stand for some 80 %. Add to that all his personal grades and we are getting close to 100 routes originally graded 8c. It might be good for all the youngsters to know that Adam's focus has always been onsight no matter the grade and the same goes for Alex Megos. It seems that the guys going for the onsight challenges in the end have better chances to become the best. Overall, Adam has onsighted over 500 routes 8a+ to 9a. Here is what he answered in his first ever 8a interview being 11 years old, in regards Which is your next goal? I don't like speaking about my plans very much. So only in general - I always try to climb as many routes of the grade OS (now, it is 8b). I usually don't try harder things for a long time.