Ryan Sklenica, with four 9a FA’s and beyond in Australia to his name, has done the first ascent of Turbo Mouse (9a+) in Nowra.

Can you tell us more about the first ascent and the process behind?
I first tried this project early in 2024. I don’t think I managed to do all the moves on day one but it felt possible. Over the season, I figured out how to do the moves and started to link sections together. Then the progress was quick, I was able to link up to the final move early on. I got sucked into thinking I was close, that the route would go soon.. months later I realised I had underestimated the final move. After falling off this single move more than 100 times the season was over.

This year, I’ve put in more work than ever before and in around 10 sessions I managed to link from the 2nd bolt to the top, climbing most of the hard section on the route. The following session we rocked up to the crag and everything was wet, so naturally I went to finish bolting another route and decided I wouldn’t bother trying for the day.

The mythical ‘Cheesedale’ wind blew in around midday, and by early afternoon the routes were drying up. I decided to give a half-assed red point go and fell on the final move yet again, but conditions felt good now so I would give some more tries. On this no pressure day, where I wasn’t even going to try, on my third red point of the day and of the year - having only done low-points so far this season, I stepped off the ground and sped to the last move as usual, I arrived at the jump feeling no different than usual, looked up, jumped, and held the swing as if was nothing but one of the many links I had done. I couldn’t quite believe that I had done it from the ground.

Nicolai Užnik, who was #8 in the Innsbruck World Cup two weeks ago, has sent Monkey Wedding (8C) in Rocklands. ”Checked it out two days ago and couldn‘t figure it out really - today different/better beta worked really well. Third go from the bottom.”

How could you find the new beta, checking videos?
I did watch some but honestly today was just about also psyche and some help from others who were trying. Just one or two slight changes on the heel hook and how to hold the left hand changed quite a lot for me!

What is next?
A couple more classics like El Corazón I want to do, and maybe check out The smile (8C) or The Finnish Line (8C) The plan is to leave on the 18th.

What about comps later on?
World Championships in September.

Jennifer Wood, with previously two 8c’s under her belt, has sent Epic Adventures 8c (b+) at Kilnsey. (c) Mario Grabinski

Can you tell us more about your ascent?
Epic adventures is one of the most endurancy routes in the UK which really appealed coming off a winter of the most endurance training I’d done in my life 😅 and lots of trips to Greece and Spain ! I made pretty quick progress and got super close at the end of May but gauged a hole in my finger on the jump move which halted progress while it healed. Then it got wet. And got wetter. Classic UK 😅 I’d go to the crag and each session overly optimistically put the draws in, find out it’s definitely wet, climb something else then go back for the draws. Luckily all the fitness on other routes paid off and finally it was mostly dry and it actually went ‘relatively’ easily 😁 . Glad to tidy it up because although I think I only had 4-5 proper sessions on it it’s been a ‘project’ for almost 3 months now so I felt like the pressure was building.

Do you know why it has been upgraded?
Yeh it’s had a few hold breakages. Still low end for sure but we gotta have some soft routes in the uk to balance it out aha.

Andrew Nimmer, who sent his first 9a+ in May, has flashed Sky (8B) in Rocklands. The 28-year-old has logged another ten flashes 7C and harder during his first four days of the trip but only four redpoints.

How did you prepare for the flash?
To flash Sky, I watched a handful of videos at the boulder. Thankfully, there wasn’t much beta to learn as it’s only a few moves long and mostly relies on power and coordination. I did have to decide on which right foot to use for the first move, and I settled on a less conventional one. I knew given my style of climbing and height, it would allow me to keep my foot on while grabbing the first hold. After sticking the first move, I just tried really hard and soon enough I found myself dunking the victory jug.

Can you say something about your general flash focus?
My general approach to flashing is to take away all the reasons why I might not flash something. It’s easy to not know where to put your foot for a move or to grab the wrong part of a hold and have it ruin a flash attempt. So I just make sure to watch videos and other people try it, make a plan for every hand and foot move, feel the holds and tick them, and run through it in my head before pulling on.

I do want to project an 8C, but I just finished my longest sport climbing project ever and I want to have some fun climbing classics I can send quickly. I have a month in Rocklands and there are so many classic 8B’s that I would love to send. The amount of rest required to climb at my limit doesn’t seem worth it this trip, but I am excited to have an 8C project close to home in Red Rock or Joe’s Valley this fall.

Jules Marchaland and Paul Jenft, #17 (Lead) and #12 (Boulder) in the Innsbruck WC last week, have done the two first ascents of Raide de toit (9a). ”Such a cool line! My friend Paul Jenft and I shared every attempt. He sent it just after me. It was an awesome process on a great roof with big vertical moves and underclings — a classic power-endurance route.” (c) Nicolas Violant