Europe and USA dominate girls U-19
For the first time at the Youth World Championships in Arco, athletes from Europe and the United States dominated a competition, doing so in the U-19 girls' Bouโ€ฆ
Korea takes gold and silver in boys U-19
Korea claimed gold and silver in the U-19 Youth World Championships Boulder event in Arco, with Beomjin Park taking gold and Chanjin Jung earning silver. The laโ€ฆ
Jonathan Siegrist comments Jumbo Love 9b
Jonathan Siegrist started to work on Jumbo Love in 2016. Last week he did the Chris Sharma 9b after an intense month with eleven sessions, after some 45 tries in total. In order to reach the 80 meter route you need to drive 10 miles on a bad dirt route and climb a 7c+ intro route. (c) Cameron Maier - Bear cam Media "I chose Jumbo Love because I am incredibly motivated by the history and the allure of such a wild and remote route. The logistics are a serious consideration for this route because of itโ€™s environment, the access road is very serious and rugged and the hike is steep and strenuous in the desert heat. It felt impossible for me to climb well on the route for more than one day in a row. Also I really felt like my conditions window was pretty small so waiting for the right days was important. For these reasons alone I was only able to try the route on about 11 days over the entire month. Patience is always a key factor in any hard project but for this it felt even more important than usual. It takes around 2.5 hours from my house to the base of the cliff, especially because I hike really slowly! I changed my training considerably for this climb because for the most part the holds are actually good, itโ€™s just the movement is massive throughout. As a shorter climber (167 cm) I worked extra hard over the winter to try and train with huge moves and become a little more dynamic, and mostly dropped my focus on finger strength. Next I am planning my escape from the brutal Las Vegas summer to Canada!"

8C (B+) by Sam Weir
Sam Weir started climbing in 2012 and within a year he reached 8A. Last year the 27 year old did his first 8C and now he has done The Ice Knife 8C (B+) in Guanella Pass. "Amazing consistent compression climbing with some tricky toe hooks and small feet. Really extended in the arms. Probably not possible if you have a smaller reach than me? Took me 3 days but I have been training in the gym and climbing on Hypnotized Minds which is much harder. Feels to be the same grade as paint it black 8C, low end. Video"

9a by Barbara Zangerl
Barbara Zangerl has done Cedric Lachat's Speed Integrale 9a in Voralpsee, which was a 10 m extension to Beat Kammerlander's Speed 8c+. It took Babsi some 15 days and the sending day was amazing. "What a day!!!!โ€”at 7 a.m. I finished my nightshift at the hospital; right after we drove to Voralpsee; without any expectations. Energy was pretty low in the morning, but somehow the day ended with this crazy fight through this big route! On my last try of the day-> I DID IT!!!" Jacopo Larcher Interesting she did it the first time also doing Speed 8c+. "The extension is powerful on slopy pockets ...not easy to climb that with pumped forearms." Ten years ago, the 163 cm Austrian was one of the very best female boulderers in the world. In 2009, she got an herniated vertebral disc which had her to stop bouldering. Today, including trad FA up to 8c and several 8c+' in sport as well as world class multi-pitches and big walls up to 8b+ on El Cap, she is the best female multi-discipline climber. "I love all disciplines. I couldn't focus just on one all over the year. Next is Canada is a trip to Canada for June and July. Excited to go there for my first time. Always fun to see new places."