23 May 2018
Jonathan Siegrist comments Jumbo Love 9b
Jonathan Siegrist started to work on Jumbo Love in 2016. Last week he did the Chris Sharma 9b after an intense month with eleven sessions, after some 45 tries in total. In order to reach the 80 meter route you need to drive 10 miles on a bad dirt route and climb a 7c+ intro route. (c) Cameron Maier - Bear cam Media
"I chose Jumbo Love because I am incredibly motivated by the history and the allure of such a wild and remote route. The logistics are a serious consideration for this route because of itโs environment, the access road is very serious and rugged and the hike is steep and strenuous in the desert heat. It felt impossible for me to climb well on the route for more than one day in a row. Also I really felt like my conditions window was pretty small so waiting for the right days was important. For these reasons alone I was only able to try the route on about 11 days over the entire month. Patience is always a key factor in any hard project but for this it felt even more important than usual. It takes around 2.5 hours from my house to the base of the cliff, especially because I hike really slowly!
I changed my training considerably for this climb because for the most part the holds are actually good, itโs just the movement is massive throughout. As a shorter climber (167 cm) I worked extra hard over the winter to try and train with huge moves and become a little more dynamic, and mostly dropped my focus on finger strength.
Next I am planning my escape from the brutal Las Vegas summer to Canada!"
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