Based on more than 1 500 unique votes, here are the results to - Male Climbing Hero? Results from 2017 in brackets. 33 % Adam Ondra (32) 16 % Alex Megos (7) 09 % Chris Sharma (17) 07 % Alex Honnold, Fred Nicole and Wolfgang Güllich (12) 05 % Tommy Caldwell (5) 03 % Dani Andrada (6) and Yuji Hirayama (3) 09 % Others

Pirmin Bertle has made the FA of Focus Pocus 9a+ in Jansegg and you have the full story here. "The hardest single move of this first seven-moves-boulder is an extremely extended stretch out to a miniscule one finger pocket. It you don’t hit it well, you won’t hold it. If you are smaller than 1,80m you won’t reach out to the foot holds and when you don’t have my finger strength – I have to admit that my static power isn’t the worst neither – you won’t move at all in the whole sequence. And if you have thicker fingers than me – what should be the case for most of the very strongly trained high end climbers – you won’t even enter into this mono." Pirmin has previoulsy done 20 routes 9a and harder out of which 14 FA, including two 9b'sand two 9a+'s.

R & I reports that Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell has set a new Speed record of the 900 meters long The Nose in Yosemite, 2.01.50. Last week they did it in 2.10.15 so probably they will try to go sub 2 hours next.

Japan dominated the male qualification in Japan with six guys in Top-12 and a total of seven into the semifinal. Further down the list, they had 13 among Top-32. Complete results

Semi results

Gabri Moroni and Akiyo Noguchi won the World Cup in Japan after also having won the semifinal. Overall the boulders were a bit too hard with three female and two male not doing one single boulder. Luckily both the male and female comp finished with Gabri and Akiyo topping out with flashes. 1. Gabri Moroni ITA 24 - Akiyo Noguchi JPN 33:5 2. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 13:1 - Miho Nonaka JPN 33:6 3. Rei Sugimoto JPN 13:4 - Ekatarina Kipriianova Rus 22 Complete results Interesting is that Gabri Moroni was #7 in his Boulder World Cup debut in 2004. Later the same year he got the bronze in the European Championship being just 16 years old. Between 2007 and 2009, he had his most successful years getting a silver in each year, being #6, 4 and 3 overall. Later during 25 World Cups and Championships he was at best #6 until 2017. With two 9a+' and one 8C, the Italian is one of the best sport climber during the last 15 years.

peter dawson has done Rainshadow 9a in Malhalm. In the 8a Combined 8a ranking game, the 19 year old is #10. "My first 9a. A bouldery crux after Raindogs then a 8a+ power endurance fest."

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