Time Machine 8c+ FA by Yuji Hirayama (50)
Yuji Hirayama, one of the best climbers in the world since the late 80'ies, report on Insta that he after almost two years projecting has made the FA of Time Machine 8c+ in Gozeniwa. "I train very very little, not regularly. Because very busy for my work and working for the Federation but I just try to squeeze into my schedule to go outdoor climbing once a week or once every two weeks. Time is so precious for me now." The name relates from getting inspiration from his routes from 1988 at the crag. " Time Machine will bring you to my generation forever." Yuji redpointed Les Specialists 8b+ in 1988 and in 2000 he won the Lead World Cup. Four times he has broken the Speed record at The Nose El Capitan. In 2008 he did two 8B+ boulders and in 2012 he put up a 9a MP in Mt Kinabuli. In other words, the young 50 year old Japanese has been in top of the game in all disciplines for over 30 years.

Europe and USA dominate girls U-19
For the first time at the Youth World Championships in Arco, athletes from Europe and the United States dominated a competition, doing so in the U-19 girls' Bouโ€ฆ
Korea takes gold and silver in boys U-19
Korea claimed gold and silver in the U-19 Youth World Championships Boulder event in Arco, with Beomjin Park taking gold and Chanjin Jung earning silver. The laโ€ฆ
Life of Villains 9a (+) by Evan Hau
Evan Hau, who previously has done three 9a's, has done Life of Villains in Hurricave giving it a personal 9a grade. (c) Christopher Weidner "Incredible king line by Joe (Kinder). I was so inspired by trying it briefly and watching others on it over Christmas that I centered a second trip primarily around this route. Stoked on the experience and how it all came together! I tried Life of Villains two days last trip just to try the moves and then it took ten days this trip which makes it my fastest 9a ever. I started training specifically this winter for the first time and it seems to be paying off! Normally in the winter I just climb for fun in the gym. Next I have one week left in Utah to try a few more things and then back home to Canada where I'm working on a 9a project I bolted and also I want to try Sacrifice 9a+, a route I bolted that Adam Ondra FAed last summer."

Moritz Welt, who is #3 in the senior Combined ranking, has done his fifth 8B+ through the FA of Royal Flush in Frankenjura. "The full line on the boulder starting like Mutant and going all the way up to the end of Backgammon! Wanted to do this for a long time and after getting close last weekend I came back this afternoon and crushed it first go! 16 hard moves in a row - a technical first part into a powerful ending - climbs just perfect but pumps like hell!"

Loic Zehani has done the FA of Iron Man in St Lรฉger, after six sessions, which was bolted by Albert Gnerro. This was the 8th 9a FA by the 17 year old. "The route is almost 40 meters long and it's absolutely beautiful. It starts with a big overhang of more than 10 meters with three hard and bloc sections and then after a physical rest on tufas, it ends with the second part of "En voie dure Simone" a superb 8c. I think it will be ยซ a classic ยปin this grade soon. " Alberto has bolted some 500 routes and we will follow up with some comments from him as there is an autobiography coming out. "I bolted this route last year but no chance to try because it was always wet. I easily do the roof but at the top there was wet holds. I did the 8c some years ago. I regret not to have the first ascent but good for Loic. He is a strong climber."

Kryptos 8B+ (C) by Christof Rauch in a session
Christof Rauch, who just the last year has done 149 boulders 8A to 8C, has done Franz Vidmer's Kryptos in Balsthal giving it a personal grade of 8B+ as he did it quickly. "Sick limestone testpiece! Wanted to try this problem since I saw the video from Franz Widmer back in the days. Psyched to send it in one session." In the 8a ranking game, the full time engine-building technician and electrician in a waterplant is #5. If he had done given so many personal grades he would have been runner up.

Amber 8B and two 8Aโ€™s in a day by Alex Puccio
Alex Puccio has had an amazing day in Brione having done two 8Aโ€™s; Disney production and Ponk as well as Amber 8B. โ€Love me some Brione rock! 2nd day on it and went in a few tries today. Also sent 2 other nice boulders, good day with good people!!! :)โ€ (c) Westmountainmedia In total the 157 cm tall has now done 181 boulders 8A to 8B+ meaning she has by far the most impressive female ticklist. Alex is also, in spite of several injuries, one of the best ever competition climber who got silver in the World Championship in 2015. In 2018 she did her last World Cup which she won.