29 March 2019

8th 9a FA by Loic Zehani (17)

Loic Zehani has done the FA of Iron Man in St Lรฉger, after six sessions, which was bolted by Albert Gnerro. This was the 8th 9a FA by the 17 year old. "The route is almost 40 meters long and it's absolutely beautiful. It starts with a big overhang of more than 10 meters with three hard and bloc sections and then after a physical rest on tufas, it ends with the second part of "En voie dure Simone" a superb 8c. I think it will be ยซ a classic ยปin this grade soon. " Alberto has bolted some 500 routes and we will follow up with some comments from him as there is an autobiography coming out. "I bolted this route last year but no chance to try because it was always wet. I easily do the roof but at the top there was wet holds. I did the 8c some years ago. I regret not to have the first ascent but good for Loic. He is a strong climber."
0 comments
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
Related
8b+ again by Loic Zehani  (12)
Loic Zehani has done his third 8b+, Le petit junky in Orgon. Three months ago, the 12 year old, also did his first 8c and interestingly, his father Chris (40) hโ€ฆ
Loic Zehani has done his second 8b+, Cupressus Blues in Orgon. In 2012, his personal best was 6c. His father, Chris (40) has the last year done four 8c+. "It's a big challenge for me to share out my passion for climbing. I think it's the same for him. He is just 12 years old and he have a lot of fuโ€ฆ
Loic Zehani has done his first 8c, Le blues de la belle in Orgon which took him ten days to do. "It suites my style perfectly, little holds on 30ยฐ (around) overhang. The start is super hard with little pockets and small foott holds. After it is easier but you can fall under the anchor, if you do an โ€ฆ