Blut und Honig 8c+ (9a) onsight by Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra stopped by Hรถllental, on his way back from Slovenia, and onsighted four routes included Bernie Fiedler's 9a, Blut und Honig. Ondra, who is the top climber giving most personal grades, thought the 45 m endurance was 8c+ or even 8c. "A route which is very hard to grade. It is long but has many good rests, and the real difficulty is the low percentage crux way low down." More info on his Insta now with 503' followers.

Europe and USA dominate girls U-19
For the first time at the Youth World Championships in Arco, athletes from Europe and the United States dominated a competition, doing so in the U-19 girls' Bouโ€ฆ
Korea takes gold and silver in boys U-19
Korea claimed gold and silver in the U-19 Youth World Championships Boulder event in Arco, with Beomjin Park taking gold and Chanjin Jung earning silver. The laโ€ฆ
Adam Ondra, who topped both qually routes, climbed two respectively four moves higher than Jakob Schubert and Kai Harada. Japan did not send their best team, anyhow getting three in the Top-9. Among the female, the semi was a Slovenia, Korea and Japan affair getting all Top-12 places but Jessica Pilz and Anak Verhoeven tied at #7. The big surprise was that Janja Garnbret was #13 with four Slovenians ahead of her. The final start 17.30. Complete results

Chaehyon Seo (15) wins again
In her fourth Lead World Cup, Chaehyon Seo from Korea got her third victory. This means that if the 15-year-old is at least #8 in one of the two last World Cups, she will be the sensational overall winner. Her dilemma is that she has not participated in two Bouldering events, meaning her only chance to qualify to Tokyo 2020, will be the Asian Combined Championship. Back to Kranj, once again poor route setting as the four shortest fell in the same move and the Top-4 did also fell in the same sequence. Nobody reached the last one-third of the route. It should be mentioned that in the semi, ten out of the eleven first reached just two different holds. 1. Chaehyon Seo (15) KOR (c) Eddie Fowke 2. Jessica Pilz AUT 3. Lucka Rakovec SLO Complete results

Ondra wins creating the perfect show
Adam Ondra was unsure if he should even compete in Kranj but luckily he did creating the perfect show topping out in great style. Passing his opponents' high point he twice waved to the spectators wanting them to cheer more. (c) Eddie Fowke "I like this event way too much and I just wanted to go here and climb without pressure and it paid off. It felt great and the audience was the best I have ever remembered." 1. Adam Ondra CZE 2. Kai Harada JPN 3. Alberto Gines Lopez ESP Complete results

El ordre dels factors + El super mon 9a by Romain Schieber
Three weeks ago, Romain Schieber, did fell in the 30m extension of El ordre dels factors + El super mon in Sant Miquel del Fai, which starts with a 10m 8B boulder traverse followed by a 20m 8c making it a soft 9a. In the end, it took him another six days to the 60 m solid 9a. "After 10 000 hours of hard training, after 5 years dreaming about it every single night, after 75 long minutes fighting on the route, he dream come true and I could do a solid 9a." In his 8a comment he also listed 82 names who had helped me in some way. As it has been a long process you can understand as it took him seven years just to do the starting boulder, two months ago. "The last weeks were very hard actually... after falling so high on a so long route it has been hard to keep calm and positive. It was really a mental game and most of the time these three last weeks I could not fight because of the pressure. The day before sending I fell on the very first hard move. So I decided just to focus on the moment and on enjoying the climbing! That strategy worked perfectly!"

Isabelle Faus, who previoulsy has donethree 8B+', has done her 37th 8A+, Hiding in the shadows in Rocklands. "Hard hard for me.. not sure of the grade... used the crimpy method." In the 8a ranking game she is #1, having done twelve boulders 8A+ to 8B+ during the last 12 months.

Updated results from the qualifications and here a video with the highlights.

Seta ibรฉrica 9a+ FA by Jorge Diaz-Rullo (19)
Jorge Diaz-Rullo, who this summer has done his first three 9b's, has done his seventh 9a+, Seta ibรฉrica in Cuenca. "Brutal connection! I wanted to do it after a couple of tries quite close! Now for the ones that remain! The 19-year-old is the superior 8a ranking leader. (c) Javi Pec