
28 September 2019
El ordre dels factors + El super mon 9a by Romain Schieber
Three weeks ago, Romain Schieber, did fell in the 30m extension of El ordre dels factors + El super mon in Sant Miquel del Fai, which starts with a 10m 8B boulder traverse followed by a 20m 8c making it a soft 9a. In the end, it took him another six days to the 60 m solid 9a.
"After 10 000 hours of hard training, after 5 years dreaming about it every single night, after 75 long minutes fighting on the route,
he dream come true and I could do a solid 9a." In his 8a comment he also listed 82 names who had helped me in some way. As it has been a long process you can understand as it took him seven years just to do the starting boulder, two months ago.
"The last weeks were very hard actually... after falling so high on a so long route it has been hard to keep calm and positive. It was really a mental game and most of the time these three last weeks I could not fight because of the pressure. The day before sending I fell on the very first hard move. So I decided just to focus on the moment and on enjoying the climbing! That strategy worked perfectly!"
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โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
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