Zach Galla has repeated Sean Bailey’s Devilution (8C+) in Buttermilks, which includes a two-move sit start to the highball Evilution Direct (8A). The 25-year-old stopped competing in 2024 and since then has had impressive outdoor progress. Last December, he sent two 9As, and in the VL ranking he is number 3. (c) Jarrid Nakata

”Hardest move I’ve done? It’s rare that something fits my size and steeze so well but feels this nails. just when I was about to call it quits, I found a new way to take the left hand start hold that unlocked the first move for me and made it all possible.

Sorting through subtleties and and finding a way has to be the most exciting moments on the sesh. Learning to appreciate those breakthrough moments more and putting less weight on sending has helped me so much this season. I can feel that I am slowly getting more consistent about maintaining a clear mind and executing without letting self imposed pressures affect how I climb.”

Gabriele Moroni, who made his first 8a/VL headline by winning bronze at the 2004 European Championship at the age of 16, has made the first ascent of Mascella Serrata (9a) in Arco. Now 38 years old, he has climbed routes up to 9b and sent several 8C boulders. (c) Crimp Films

”I tried this magnificent line on and off for a few seasons but this winter I finally managed to spend some quality days on it and surprisingly the progression was very linear and fast! I am very excited to feel my body fit again after some chill months, mostly trad climbing and a rather unfortunate two weeks trip in Yosemite(and consequent post trip depression)… Looking forward to the next months!!”

Nathan Williams has repeated Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Red Rock (NV). Five years ago he sent the 8C+ stand start.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I felt like I was strong enough to send my first season trying and it still took my so long to send. My biggest crux was being numb when I got to the red point crux (the big move to the sloper). Instead of trying to figure out that issue I just tried and tried in hopes that I’d maybe get strong enough to just be able to climb it numb. This season the session before the day I did it I figured out the tech for not being numb and after that I stuck the sloper every try. I think I’ve I tried to figure this out earlier I maybe could have done it years ago haha.

What is next?
I think I’ll try Shaolin (9A) a few more sessions before heading home. Feels good and I have it in two parts, but not trying to start a full siege again quite yet haha.

Tereza Širůčková has been on a trip to Margalef where she redpointed Aitzol 8b+/c and onsighted El Fustigador (8a+). Last year, the 22-year-old opened the World Cup season with 14th- and 16-place finishes, and over the summer she sent her second 8c+.

Can you tell us more about the trip and the routes you tried?
I went to Margalef for my first time with a pretty clear plan – I wanted to push my grade on rock. I really like pockets, it was clear to me that this place could suit me well. I was really excited. I worked out the moves on my 9a project quite quickly and went for the first attempt thinking I might just try some good links. But suddenly I realized I was only two moves away from the top. Total surprise. Huge motivation, but also that classic feeling of “wow, that was really close.”

Then the weather got worse. And that’s when the sentence was born that followed me for the rest of the trip: “It will be dry in two days.” In the end, I didn’t come back to the project, and choosing routes started to look something like this: “Hey, this one is dry… so maybe we’ll try this.”

Eventually, I managed to climb my first 8a+ onsight. I have to say I was pretty lucky there. I read the route well, everything came together, and suddenly I was clipping the chains. Then came Aitzol. That was a different story. I didn’t have that much luck there. The route wasn’t in condition at all and was quite damp. When I climbed through the main boulder and reached the “rest,” I realized the headwall was more like a stream of water. At that moment, I thought it was unclimbable.

But I tried anyway. I catch the first pocket, which was more like a pool than a hold. Luckily, two slightly better ones followed, where it didn’t bother me as much that they were wet. From there, I chalked up the footholds properly so I could at least stand on them, and just hoped I wouldn’t slip. And somehow, it worked. Honestly, in those conditions the route felt insanely hard, and I feel like I probably had more luck than sense.

Katherine Choong, with seven routes 8c+ and 9a’s under her belt, has climbed Guère d'usure (8c) in Claret. (c) Severin Domela

The 34-year-old, who is considered one of the best female multi-pitch climbers, became the Youth World Champion in 2009 and competed actively until 2021.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Guère d’usure 8c in Claret, a classic French route on a stunning prow bolted by Hugues Beauzile and Pierre Rouzo. It’s one of those climbs that goes from “this is impossible” to total flow once every tiny detail clicks. I actually came here ten years ago and didn’t really appreciate it, but coming back with a fresh mindset, great vibes, and supportive climbers at the base completely changed my experience. Nothing crazy grade-wise these days, but it was a send that filled me with pure joy.

What are your 2026 plans?
For 2026, I’m planning to hit a few projects I’m excited about:
• Yeah man! (8b+) (300m)
• A return to Esclatamasters (9a) at Peres, if the route dries