Asia dominated girls U-17 at the YWC
Seven of the eight finalists in the Youth U-17 Lead World Championships in Arco were from Asia. Japan's Arisa Hayashi claimed the gold medal, adding another worโ€ฆ
Japan dominated boys U-17 in Arco
Kazuki Nakata of Japan won all three rounds at the U-17 World Championships, while two of his teammates also finished in the top four. Overall, all six of the tโ€ฆ
 Pietro Vidi does two 8C's
Pietro Vidi has had a great start of 2024 in Valle Bavona by first repeating 4-Low (8C) and later doing the FA of Captain Nemo (8C), which is a sit start to Finding Nemo (8A+). โ€Mega line! Still unsure about the grade as it went down pretty quickly, time will tell! New Classic for sure! Props to Dave [Graham] and Giul [Cameroni] for the vision.โ€

Miho Nonaka, who 24 times has made the World Cup podium, has done Buttermilker Sit (8B).

Coudert Camille does La Picharete (8C) and projects a 9A/+
Coudert Camille, who two years ago completed Soudain seul (9A), has done La Picharete (8C) in Fontainebleau. โ€I did this boulder last week as well as two 8Bโ€™s and Satan i Helvete Bas. I put aside my big project for a week just to free my mind. The 8C is a boulder opened last year by Nico Pelorson. It begins with a very hard finger and foot 8B crack with six moves. It ends with an 8A compression based on seven movements.

What is your โ€big projectโ€?
Imothep sit, which is probably the biggest project in Fontainebleau. It is a sit start to the classical Imothep (8A).

How much effort have you put in?
I think a little less than 40 sessions. Iโ€™ve been trying it since last winter. I train specifically in the gym on similar efforts, but I donโ€™t have a replica of the boulder. It has been tried by many climbers for 15 years but without any real effort. I am projecting it together with Nico Pelorson. I am currently missing the 2nd move which I hope to succeed soon. Starting in the position just after this move I fall at the last movement to join the standing start.

Are we talking 9A or even 9A+?
I have little experience at this level. If I compare to Soudain seul and to Alphane, which I tried four days last year, I would say that the imothep sit is a good notch above. It is too much to say itโ€™s 9A+ but the boulder is probably a hard 9A or even a soft 9A+.

Luca Bana does the FA of Alta Marea (9a)
Luca Bana, who started 2024 by doing Supercrackinette (9a+), has sent Alta marea (9a) in Mediterranea .

โ€Back from the successful trip to France, I got my hands again on some unclimbed projects near home. One of these is "Alta Marea", a powerful overhanging 20 meter line located in a secret spot still under development. Taking advantage of my good shape at the moment, I managed to send it in a few sessions, with a big fight high up against the severe pump. It's always inspiring, at least for me, to get involved on routes yet to be freed. Well, let's move to the next one!โ€

Stefano Carnati sends Xaxid Hostel (9a)
Stefano Carnati has done Xaxid hostel (9a) in Miลกja Peฤ. โ€Great long route with a heinous sequence on slippery holds close to the start and several other low-percentage moves higher up. Not over until the end. Sent during a cloudy and cold day.โ€

Last year, the Italian did his first year 9b as well as an 8C+ graded boulder problem. Currently, he lives in Slovenia and he's in his 2nd year of PhD studies in environmental and chemical sciences.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I belayed some of my friends on the route and it immediately caught my eye. So, after Christmas break I decided to start trying! I quickly felt good on the movement, but the crux at the begin was giving me troubles on redpoint. Fortunately, once I made it through I managed not to make mistakes or get too pumped in the upper part, even though it is still hard with several risky movements. Overall it required 14 tries over 4 sessions. Itโ€™s a beautiful long route and hopefully it will see more ascents in the future, although itโ€™s definitely a bit more demanding in respect to the other two 9as in Misja Pec!