The classic Mandala 8A+ in Bishop, which 132 ascents in the 8a data base, has got its third flash ascent, Alex Khazanov. The first two flashes of the Chris Sharma great problem were done by Tony Lamiche and Brian Voges. "Andy Lamb and Solomon Barth helped me during the ascent. Solomon did it on his first go this time so I pretty much saw the perfect beta. Unfortunately, as no one really expected this flash, I just have some phone pictures that Andy took on the first moves. In some point he had to come spot. Cant believe I have actually flashed it! A dream come true for me! Ever since I have seen the footage of Chris (Sharma) climbing it, I was dreaming to try it some day. What a feeling it was toping that boulder."

dai koyamada's short movie "Stratos" V12/13 from project_daihold on Vimeo.

If you use 50% of your max power on each arm, your blood circulation is almost non-existing and you will quickly get a burning pump. If, instead, you climb with a technique where you try to take as much load on one hand and let the other rest, you can go on for a long time. The best way to train this technique is simply just to let go with the lower hand as soon as you have reached the next hold. Start practicing directly during your warm up on juggy routes. In practice, it means that you will move your feet several times in between you move your arm movements. Do not dyno. After a couple of hours you will notice a change while climbing or bouldering also on harder moves. The biggest gain of this technique is, nevertheless, found on relatively easy terrain. Hopefully this orangutan climbing style will improve your ability to rest and give you better endurance. This focus on one arm climbing will also make your shoulder and biceps muscles stronger which is especially good for overhangs.

ORDEN DE ALEJAMIENTO 8B from Luis Rodríguez on Vimeo.

ORDEN DE ALEJAMIENTO 8B from Luis Rodríguez on Vimeo.

Ak prerozdelíš 50% svojej maximálne sily na každú ruku, potom krvný obeh v každej z nich bude skoro nulový a tebe rýchlo nabehnú bandasky. Ak sa však zameriaš na techniku, pri ktorej zaťažíš jednu ruku maximálne a necháš tú druhú oddychovať, môžeš vydržať dlhšie. Dobrý spôsob, ako túto techniku natrénovať, je sústrediť sa na pustenie spodnej ruky hneď ako dosiahneš nasledujúci chyt. Začať treba už pri rozohriatí na jednoduchých cestách po madlách. V praxi to znamená, že treba upraviť pozíciu nôh pred tým, ako spravíš ďalší pohyb rukou. Neskáč, riskuješ zranenie! Už po niekoľkých hodinách môže byť zmena badateľná, či už v cestách alebo na bouldroch, dokonca aj v ťažkých krokoch. Najviac je však táto technika nápomocná v relatívne ľahšom teréne. Zároveň však môže pomôcť vybudovať silnejšie bicepsy a ramená, čo je výhoda hlavne v previsoch. Dúfame, že Ti táto technika pomôže lepšie oddychovať a zlepší vytrvalosť!