After the two first boulder, Janja Garnbret had 11 points (one top and one zone) and Stasa Gejo had one point. All the rest had scored zero although Petra Klingler seemed to have done the crux on the second boulder but the zone was further up. On the third boulder Stasa, with tape on four finger tips, was lucky and skillful using the palm on the sideway crux doing a very impressive top. Then also Akiyo Noguchi started to move doing the last two boulders but as Janja also did the third, she had secured the world champion title before she begun her not so focused last tries. Unfortunately, Miho Nonaka's shoulder injury did get worse and it will be very hard for her doing the Combined final on Sunday. 1. Janja Garnbret SLO 23 (Two Tops and three zones) 2. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 22 3. Stasa Gejo SRB 12 4. Jessica Pilz AUT 02 on 4 attempts 5. Miho Nonaka JPN 02 on 6 attempts 6. Petra Klingler SUI 00 Complete results (c) Vladek Zumr Janja is now the first female that has won the World Championship in both Lead and Boulder. During the last 19 World Cups in both Lead and Boulder, her worst result is #3.

Updated Speed results for the Speed qualifications starting at 10.00 for the female and 14.00 for the male. Para Climbing finals are live-streamed 12.30-16.15 and 18.00-20.00 followed by the Speed Finals 20.00-21.00

Tomoa Narasaki has set a new very impressive record in Speed with 6.697. Runner-up among the non-speed specialists are Mickael Mawem 6.769, Jan Hojer 7.079 and Kokoro Fujii 7.283. Adam Ondra did 9.316 in his Speed debut. Complete results Yoshiyuki Ogata and Jongwon Chon did a false start in race one meaning they are also disqualified from the second race as well as getting any good Combined result. Also the world record holder as well as the World Cup leader, Danyil Boldyrev did get one false start and is out. (c) Eddie Fowke Jakob Schubert did a good race in the first race below 8 seconds but as he made a false start in his second race, he was also disqualified. Most probably he will still make it to the Combined final.

Exciting Speed finals where Rexa Alipourzena won ahead of Bassa Mawem who neck to neck did miss the last foot hold and came 10 cm short to the buzzer. Replay Among the female Aleksandra Rudzinska won a Polish finale Anna Brozek. Other then that there were quite few false starts and also falls during the earlier rounds. Complete results (c) Vladek Zumr

112 female will start the bouldering qualification in two groups at 10, Updated results.

Jernej Kruder, the Boulder World Cup winner 2018, known for his limited indoor training has taken it one step further. Directly after the Lead qualification he did Waldläufer 8c in Ötztal and two days ago he did Schimpansenbaby low 8B in Zillertal. In the 8a Combined ranking game, Jernej is #8. (c) Vladek Zumr

Stay updated on the results for the 152 male competed. Avaialiable also through the App "Innsbruck 2018.

Chuck Odette has probably set a new standard for 62 year old's by doing Eulogy 8b+ in Maple Canyon, which originally was 8c. (c) Zoltan Papp "I managed a hallelujah send of Eulogy yesterday in warmer then I'd like conditions. I was tired and lethargic during warm ups. On my first attempt I moved too slowly and fell at the end of the crux of Millennium loaded with lactic acid. I waited 2 hours and had given up on red-pointing for the day. I decided to just go all out and let the chips fall where they may and be happy with a possible high point... maybe... I moved quickly through the Millennium portion (1st half of the route) and barely stuck the crux (V7/8). I tried resting at multiple knee-bars before taking on the Don't Mess With Texas crux (V6) which hits you at about 2/3 of the way out the Pipe Dream cave. It's a difficult crux to do when you're pumped senseless. I barely stuck it and had to ad-lib with a wild foot stab to a hold I've never used to stay on and complete this section. I was in total battle mode! I skipped a clip (3rd from last bolt) near the top to keep my upward/outward momentum going and somehow stuck the final dynamic crux... barely... two bolts from the top (the route contains 20+ bolts,.. I skip 4, typically). I knew at this point, I was pretty much done. I had one more big committing move above the last bolt, but hit it precisely due to intense adrenaline rush. Clipped the chains. Done. Sore as hell today, but incredibly happy."

The male Boulder qualification got a perfect start at 9.00 where most boulders were topped including five by both Tomoa Narasaki and Jongwon Chon. Jernej Kruder won his group with four tops showing that it is also great to prepare outdoors. As time progressed we saw, especially in Group B, less tops and Alex Megos failed to make it into the semifinal. It should be mentioned that first Schubert was out but later, after an Austrian protest, Vadim Timonov's zone of the second boulder was cancelled. You can watch his attempt on live-streaming 4.23.30. Adam Ondra entered the stage at 13.35 when it was 28 degrees in the shadow, in comparison to 18 degrees at 9.00. The sun had hit part of the walls but anyhow the Czech delivered and was #4 in Group B. During the last hour, very few did get any zones apart from the last boulder which all but three out of the 150 participants did. Domen Skofic was #41 based on doing four zones. Overall, Japan was best with five guys Top-13. Great Britain, Austria, Slovenia and France did get two respectively into the semifinal. Complete results. (c) Vladek Zumr