Leo Bøe, with 15 routes 9a and beyond, since 2023, under his belt, has done the first ascent of Ride of the Valkyries (9a) in Flatanger. ”Climb Nordic Flower 8b+ and then traverse right into obvious crack to join the very start of The Valkyrie.” (c) Johanna Jupin

The Valkyrie (8c) was first ascended by Magnus Midtbo and begins with about 12 meters of jumar climbing. It is one of the five star classics in the cave, and part of the roof declines.

Can you tell us more about the process behind your FA?
It was thrilling to explore the short 8m traverse connecting the two lines. I thought it would be climbed as a crack with handjams etc, but it was not quite like that. The style was more similar to the other two routes, with big holds and steep roof climbing. At first I got a bit nervous for the final stretch; the last cam was moving around alot and it was about 4 meters to the first quickdraw in The Valkyrie. The next couple moves were also full of sand and the last move was a big committing move into a jug!

I bailed on the final move on the first day with my mental game defeated. However I came back the next day with psyche and the idea to support the wiggly cam with another worse cam to equalize the load. I committed to the move and the traverse sequence was unlocked! The next couple days at the crag went to figure out the rope changes and methods for the other two routes. I had to rework The Valkyrie a bit to have a good beta, especially for the first 7C-boulder

I started giving burns and it turned out to be an endurance beast combining two long routes. It could easily compare to Valhalla (9a) in difficulty and style. After a couple tries I had the rope swap dialed. I had to do a rope swap in the «start-anchor» of The Valkyrie from an uncomfortable left kneebar. The knee gave me just about enough time to change ropes before my leg pumped out and to keep going fresher into the first boulder.

The fight in The Valkyrie section was great with acumulating pump from the added start. In the end it took me about 4-5 days to work it out and send it with great support from my girlfriend Johanna Jupin and Elias with the joint belay. We celebrated and Johanna took some photos of the traverse connecting the two routes.

Why did you do the link-up on trad gear?
The reason I ended up climbing it in this trad/hybrid-style was because of the bolting ban in the cave that has lasted about more than 10 years. There is a conflict between neighbooring farmers who own the land of the cave. I cannot say more than that because of lack of knowledge on the matter. If I was allowed to bolt my own lines in the cave I would have gone crazy already. I see a lot more potential for routes in my level and I’m eager to explore more of the trad opportunities for now.

What is next?
In the next weeks I will focus on finishing my biggest project yet: Change 9b/+. I also have an interesting project that I’ve bolted on an island that could end up being my hardest FA yet if it goes! I am yet to solve all the moves to see if it is even possible! I think there a little bit more potential in the area, but no major crags found so far. The project I bolted however is incredible!

Lucia Dörffel, who last month did her first 8B+, has sent The Witch (8B) in Gottardo, giving it a personal 8A+ grade. The 25-year-old placed 16th last year in the Paris Olympics, and this March she was third in an Euro Boulder Cup.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I really enjoyed trying this boulder. It was more like a little side project but I’m happy to have sent it. The mantle was definitely the hardest part for me.

How come you have only done one comp this year?
I had to deal with some major health problems. I couldn’t climb or train for 8 weeks and it was unfortunately at the beginning of the Boulder comp season. I will do the world champs in September and then next year again with the goal Olympics 2028 :)

Jules Marchaland, who last week sent two 8B+ boulders as well as his first 8C, has, over two days in Rawyl, onsighted Gaiouf (8b+) and Paradis naturel (8b+), and redpointed Super Finale (9a).

Can you tell us more about the trip and the hardest ascents ?
After Fionnay, the heat wave hit, and we wanted to move to Rawyl to discover this place. But… the heat wave was there too 😅. I think it was 33° at the village, so maybe 28-30° at the crag. The rock is on the sun until 15:30 and then you climb.

The main goal was to try to flash “Super Finale”. I knew it would be a really good candidate for a flash. With the hot temperatures, the conditions were terrible, so I decided to save my flash attempt for later. I started by onsighting an 8b+ (Paradis Naturel).

Then Matteo Soulé got on the route, which really psyched me up, and since I’m super impatient, I gave it a go. As expected, I double hand-slipped because of the conditions 😅. I tried again later — same result 😅.

I came back the next day, and the conditions were still awful. I onsighted another 8b+ to start (Gaiouf), then had a mediocre attempt on Super Finale. But I sent it on the next try with an epic run 🤣. I hadn’t figured out the middle section (since I had gone into Hyper Finale after missing the flash), and I ended up doing a double hand slip during a coordination move — total chaos and super funny 🤣. Anyway, it was a real battle to clip the chains in those miserable conditions.

How was the onsights, full control or big fight?
The first one was a mix of control and big fight because it is super long and super pumpy. The second one was a bit harder but I did zero mistakes so this one more full control.

Michael Piccolruaz, who has sent a dozen routes 8B to 8C during a five weeks trip to Rocklands, has flashed Shakey Warrior (8B+). ” Wow, felt effortless. Had a good plan, executed perfectly and it fit my style really well. With all of this coming together magical things can happen... Thx Thilo and Teo for the support and hype!”

How did you prepare beta wise and how was your feeling during the ascent?
For preparation I watched videos of Alex Khazanov and Vadim Timonov. Thankfully the both used exactly the same beta so I didn't have any struggles of choosing one and I simply trusted theirs to be the right way of climbing the Boulder. I then took my time to feel the holds out well to know exactly how I wanted to hold them making precise tickmarks for later when I would be climbing. Before climbing I simply visualized the climb a couple times and then just went for it.

The climbing itself felt extremely flowy. I didn't think at all whether I'm doing anything right or wrong but just committed to the plan until I realized when I was setting up for the last move, 'holy shit' I can do this actually and I knew I was not gonna drop it. And moments later I was mantling up smiling at Thilo and Teo, who were almost more psyched from what had just happened, than I was in the moment 😅

Jules Marchaland, has repeated Dylan Chuat’s Big nose (8C) in Fionnay. At 24 years old, the world’s number three in the route rankings game had completed just seven boulders graded 8A or harder before last year—a total he matched in just the past week.

”Too bad conditions for Permanent midnight low (8C+) so I decided to check this one and send it in 30 minutes. This boulder is amazing, with a completely wild selection of holds and some crazy moves. I don’t have much experience with bouldering grades, but it’s definitely soft, still, it feels harder than the 8B+ problems I’ve done in this kind of long style. Big up dydy pour la first.”