Jules Marchaland crushes again

Jules Marchaland, who last week sent two 8B+ boulders as well as his first 8C, has, over two days in Rawyl, onsighted Gaiouf (8b+) and Paradis naturel (8b+), and redpointed Super Finale (9a).

Can you tell us more about the trip and the hardest ascents ?
After Fionnay, the heat wave hit, and we wanted to move to Rawyl to discover this place. But… the heat wave was there too 😅. I think it was 33° at the village, so maybe 28-30° at the crag. The rock is on the sun until 15:30 and then you climb.

The main goal was to try to flash “Super Finale”. I knew it would be a really good candidate for a flash. With the hot temperatures, the conditions were terrible, so I decided to save my flash attempt for later. I started by onsighting an 8b+ (Paradis Naturel).

Then Matteo Soulé got on the route, which really psyched me up, and since I’m super impatient, I gave it a go. As expected, I double hand-slipped because of the conditions 😅. I tried again later — same result 😅.

I came back the next day, and the conditions were still awful. I onsighted another 8b+ to start (Gaiouf), then had a mediocre attempt on Super Finale. But I sent it on the next try with an epic run 🤣. I hadn’t figured out the middle section (since I had gone into Hyper Finale after missing the flash), and I ended up doing a double hand slip during a coordination move — total chaos and super funny 🤣. Anyway, it was a real battle to clip the chains in those miserable conditions.

How was the onsights, full control or big fight?
The first one was a mix of control and big fight because it is super long and super pumpy. The second one was a bit harder but I did zero mistakes so this one more full control.