Pete Whittaker has done the second repeat of Nicolas Favresse's Recovery drink 8c+ in Jössingfjord, Norway after some 25 sessions. He started working on the big overhanging crack in 2015 and did it on his fourth trip. "I think it's generally considered to be 8c+, which seems to sit in line with all the other 5.14 trad routes I've done." Full story on Pete's Facebook. "Miraculously I found myself mid crux with some power in the tank. Not much, but some, and albeit feeling the sag, some is always enough for something extra to happen. Left heal went on for the match and it didn’t come off, which was a surprise, because I was milking it much more than the hold really allowed. I realised I better carry on, so shut my eyes to try harder and fondled for the jam doughnut. I then realised I couldn’t see a bloody thing, so opened them again, found I was still connected to the wall, flipped my hand the ‘correct way’ and unbelievably found myself established beyond the crux. Blimey!" What is next? I have the launch of my book 'Crack Climbing' this winter, so very focused on that. I also heard 'Silence' has a foot jam on it, so I might go and see if I can hang the move.

Complete results

Big drama with the Ondra bolt incident in the end that including the multiplication format, as well as four Japanese into the final, just made it almost too much. Further more the commentators keep saying that Japan will select two to Tokyo which they can not know. In the end, it was Sean McColl who had a very poor round in both Speed and Boulder, who was the biggest lucky winner of an Olympic ticket. Sean started of with a Z-clip but kept on fighting and looked not so pleased falling being #3. Then every result of the remaining climbers did go exactly as they should. (c) Vladek Zumr Very lucky indeed was indeed also Ludovico Fossali, who although being dead last in both Lead and Boulder he got himself a ticket to Tokyo. 1. Alex Megos 17 - 1 - 1 = 17 2. Jakob Schubert 15 - 2 - 2 = 60 3. Tomoa Narasaki 4 - 4 - 7 = 112 4. Kokoro Fujii 5 - 7 - 5 = 175 5. Kai Harada 6 - 3 -13 = 234 6. Rishar Khaibullin 1 - 17 - 16 = 272 7. Meichi Narasaki 8 - 5 - 10 = 400 8. Mickael Mawem 83 - 8 - 18 = 432 Also getting an Olympic ticket 9. Ludovico Fossali 2 - 20 - 20 = 800 10. Sean McColl 18 - 15 - 3 = 810 Complete results

The big sensation in the Speed was that Shauna Coxsey was second and being third in Boulder she is currently #1. "Incredible unexpected" was Shauna's first word in IFSC mini-interview. 1. Shauna Coxsey 2 - 3 = 6 2. Akiyo Noguchi 7 - 1 = 7 3. Aleksandra Miroslaw 1 - 8 = 8 4. Janja Garnbret 6 - 2 = 12 5. Miho Nonaka 4 - 4 = 16 6. Petra Klingler 3- 7 = 21 7. Futaba Ito 5 - 6 = 30 8. Ai Mori 8 - 5 = 40 Unfortunately, the route setters made a big mistake again and on the third and last boulder nobody were not super close to secure the zone. As a matter of a fact, most did actually struggle to move of the ground and only few times we saw the first big mantle move being done. In total, there were almost 45 minutes with just minimal action including also the Speed specialist trying to do the first move on boulder 2. It should be mentioned that the two first boulders were perfect with plenty of action separating all climbers. As it stands, if we assume that Janja will win Lead, she will win at 12 points. In theory, all the others can get on the podium excluding Aleksandra who realistically needs some miracle like disqualification etc.

Janja Garnbret is the Hachioji Combined World Champion after topping out the Lead route faster than Ai Mori. Also Akiyo Noguchi touched the top but could not hold it meaning she lost the title as she had climbed faster than Janja. Third was Shauna Coxsey who has become also one of the best route climbers in the world. Repeating Adam Ondra's mistake standing on a bolt, Coxsey dropped from fourth to seventh in Lead which in practice did not change her overall score. Fourth was Speed specialist Aleksandra Miroslaw who understandably was dead last in both Boulder and Lead. It should be mentioned that it is most likely that also during the Olympics, she or another Speed specialist will be fourth although being dead last in both Boulder and Speed. (c) Vladek Zumr 1. Janja Garnbret 6 - 2 - 1 = 12 2. Akiyo Noguchi 7 - 1 - 3 = 21 3. Shauna Coxsey 2 - 3 - 7 = 42 4. Aleksandra Miroslaw 1 - 8 - 8 = 64 5. Miho Nonaka 4 - 4 - 5 = 80 6. Ai Mori 8 - 5 - 2 = 80 7. Futaba Ito 5 - 6 - 4 = 120 8. Petra Klingler 3 - 7 - 6 = 126 Complete results

Very exciting finish in the Combined Lead qualifications where actually Shauna Coxsey finished #3 and won overall. The big surprises were that Janja Garnbret was #8 in Lead. Winner in Lead was Ai Mori topping out in great style meaning she also got her a spot, including three other Japaneses, to the final although being #18 and #16 in Speed and Boulder. The Top-7 are qualified to the Olympics but as only one from Japan will be selected from the WCH, also #9 Brooke Raboutou and #9 Jessica Pilz made it through. (It should be said that the commentators said that only Brooke got a ticket as they said that two from Japan will be selected from the WCH. This is not correct according to the official qualification information.) It should also be mentioned that if Brooke and Jessica had been climbing faster they would have made it to the Top-8 which had kicked out Miho Nonaka from the final. 1. Shauna Coxsey 14 - 1 - 3 = 42 2. Akiyo Noguchi 10 - 4 - 2 = 80 3. Janja Garnbret 7 - 2 - 8 = 112 4. Petra Klingler 8 - 3 - 12 = 288 5. Ai Mori 18 - 16 - 1 = 288 6. Futaba Ito 4 - 5 - 15 = 300 7. Aleksandra Miroslaw 1 - 19 - 20 = 390 8. Miho Nonaka 5 - 6 - 14 = 420