Martina Demmel (18) #2 in the onsight ranking game
Martina Demmel, who started climbing in 2017 and within 15 months had onsighted her first 7c, has during the last three weeks done seven routes 8a+ to 8b+ second go or onsight. Her grade pyramid has a solid base on onsights up to 8b (and flashes in bouldering) so it is just a matter of time until she will push harder also in redpoint. In the 8a ranking game, the former skiracer is #2 in the onsight ranking game. An interview is coming up. On the pic by Ed Ru the 18-year-old is onsighting Meconi in Margalef. "The best tufa line I've ever done! Stemming, cuddling, battling, pinching and dancing around these two tufas;) kinda strange but a must-do!"

Semis Decide Girlsโ€™ U-19 Results
The U-19 girls' final at the Youth World Championship in Arco produced an exceptionally close contest, with four athletes scoring 34+. Anika Deubler claimed theโ€ฆ
Chanjin Jung defends his YWC title
Chanjin Jung, who also won the youth world championship in 2025, was the only climber to top the semifinal route, then went on to finish three holds ahead of thโ€ฆ
Combifetis 8c by Solveig Korherr
Solveig Korherr, who last November did her first two 8c+' in Red River Gorge, has done Combifetis 8c in Margalef. In the 8a ranking game she is #1. (c) Jon Shen "I was not sure if the pocket style here would fit me but I quickly found out that it did play to my strengths as there are many intermediate holds and foot options here. I had a rather successful first week. I managed to dispatch Via del Quim (8b+) in a single day and Aitzol (8b+) in two days, as well as make several other 8a+ and 8a onsights. I then set my goal on finding an 8c/+ project. This happened to be Combifetis, which consists of about 20 moves of very sustained climbing on small holds without a rest. It feels like the most difficult 8c that I have done. As for the rest of 2020, we still have about three weeks in Spain. I am generally looking to consolidate the 8c and 8c+ grade in different styles and rock types as I have only done a handful of them."

Prinzip Hoffning 8b/+ trad Lena Marie Mรผller
Lena Marie Mรผller has done Prinzip Hoffnung 8b/+ trad at Bรผrs. Previously, the 28-year-old, who is doing doctoral thesis is in climate change at Innsbruck University, had 8a+ on bolts and 8a on trad as her personal best. (c) Johannes Ingrisch "I went there the first time 6 weeks ago and checked out all the moves and gear on toprope. After sending it on toprope, I did some long falls into the gear to get more comfortable. In the end, I did it on my third lead go, falling the first time before the crux section and the second time at the very end of it. On the third go I was lucky enough to get through the insecure moves. I tried it together with Johannes Ingrisch who send it a few days before me. We almost always went to Bรผrs by train to climb it with a carbon footprint as low as possible." More info on her Insta

Dreamtime 8C by Matt Fultz
Matt Fultz, who did his first 8C ten months ago, has done his eigth, Dreamtime in Cresciano. The 28-year-old is #3 in the ranking game and based of his trend diagram he could be #1 in six months but then he needs to also step up to 8C+.

Two 8b+ OS and two 8c+ RP Piotr Schab
Piotr Schab, who just did his ninth 9a+, has onsighted two 8b+', Los Humildes pa Casa. and The King Lizard in Oliana. Including nine 8c onsights, the Pole should be considered as one of the very best onsight climbers in the world. (c) Toni Mas Muchaca During the last week, Piotr has also done two 8c+' and he is #3 in the 8a ranking game.

Los Humildes pa Casa 8b+ by Chris Frick (52)
Chris Frick, who did his first 8b+, out of 12, in 1992, has done one more, Los Humildes pa Casa in Oliana. With 8c, always nearby where he lives in Basel, as his personal best and that he could not climb for a year in 2017, his story is really inspiring. (c) Toni Mas Buchaca "In 2017 I lost the nervus thoracicus in the right shoulder meaning I couldnโ€˜t lift my right arm for about a year. It was questionable if I could climb again. But my love for climbing was stronger and I slowly worked my way back to climbing at my personal limit. A tough task for sure. But intuitively I realized that it could not be over... not yet! With my experience I can tell some good news: climbing at an age of 50+ and at the same personal limit you may have in your hay-days some decades ago is still possible. Never say youโ€™re too old or weak. Live sustainably and eat healthily, enjoy life, meet people who spend positive energies and avoid the energy-vampires who tell you at your age everything is over! Climbing has so much to offer and exploring whatโ€™s possible at the world's best crags together with great friends is so rewarding. Getting fat and watching TV? No way! Training is following an intuitive program founded on my experience. Mostly change from bouldering to lead in the gym. A lot of core exercises and finger strength with extra weight. But always listen to myself how much load I can stand that training day. Every six weeks is a resting week. Good nutrition. Iโ€˜m vegan."

Wrestling with an alligator 8B flash by Stefan Scarperi
Stefan Scarperi, #16 in the Euro Championship last year, has done his first 8B flash, Wrestling with an alligator 8B in Malatal. A few days earlier he also did Bรผgeleisen 8B+ in just one hour and now he is wotking the sit. "The grade of the sit is 8C and I think if I will get it the next time I can climb on it." During the last five days he has also done seven more boulders 8A to 8B including one flash.