2 March 2020
Los Humildes pa Casa 8b+ by Chris Frick (52)
Chris Frick, who did his first 8b+, out of 12, in 1992, has done one more, Los Humildes pa Casa in Oliana. With 8c, always nearby where he lives in Basel, as his personal best and that he could not climb for a year in 2017, his story is really inspiring. (c) Toni Mas Buchaca
"In 2017 I lost the nervus thoracicus in the right shoulder meaning I couldnโt lift my right arm for about a year. It was questionable if I could climb again. But my love for climbing was stronger and I slowly worked my way back to climbing at my personal limit. A tough task for sure. But intuitively I realized that it could not be over... not yet!
With my experience I can tell some good news: climbing at an age of 50+ and at the same personal limit you may have in your hay-days some decades ago is still possible. Never say youโre too old or weak. Live sustainably and eat healthily, enjoy life, meet people who spend positive energies and avoid the energy-vampires who tell you at your age everything is over! Climbing has so much to offer and exploring whatโs possible at the world's best crags together with great friends is so rewarding. Getting fat and watching TV? No way!
Training is following an intuitive program founded on my experience. Mostly change from bouldering to lead in the gym. A lot of core exercises and finger strength with extra weight. But always listen to myself how much load I can stand that training day. Every six weeks is a resting week. Good nutrition. Iโm vegan."
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Chris Frick, who did his first 8b+ in 1992, has done the first ascent of Chaรฎne de Markov (8b+) in Gorges de Court. In total, the 57-year-old has done almost 50โฆ
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The Development of Ethics/Practice
Christian Frick has helped us with an article published in the 8a yearbook 2010. The Development of Ethics and Practice of sport climbing.
Here are some other yearbook historical articles: Lynn Hill: The Great Debate
Griffith: Ground-up bolting 1981 by Said Belhaj
Arco Rockmaster 1987-2010 by Nicholโฆ
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ