Nepobedim Ext. 8c by Niki Rusev (14)
Niki Rusev comes out strong from the lockdown having done his second 8c, Nepobedim Ext. 8c in Karlukovo, Video.

Things started getting better with the pandemic and now we can climb outside again. Those two months I spent at home I realized I had to train. Every day after school I did intense training. This would take up to two hours and a half. I wanted to face my friends and coaches and show them I havenโ€™t lost my form, but even better I have become stronger after all this hard work.

A forty-five meter 8c is pretty good. Before I had made the second part which is 8b. I wanted to run it so I could have the strength to the end, and that's exactly what happened. I didn't have a single unnecessary movement, it was all in my head. I didn't squeeze them much and so I climbed it quite fresh and I toped it at the sixth try."

Satan i helvete Low 8C FA by Oriane Bertone (15)
Oriane Bertone has done the FA of Satan i helvete Low 8C in Fontainbleu after a broken hold. Dave Graham did the FA of the stand 8B and then Seb Frigault added the two moves low calling it 8B+ before the broken hold.

"A perfect ascent after 11 sessions, in which I did Fata Morgana bas and Fata I Helvete who share the low section with Satan I Helvete Bas. I psyched to climb harder and harder and manage to build this last ascent. First Ascent after a broken hold in 2013. The line was called 8C for stand start (Alban Levier in 2016), but I think that with my beta its 8C from low start now." Video with detailed info such as Charles Albert has repeated it barefoot calling it 8B+ hard or 8C.

Previously, three woman have done 8C; Ashima Shiraishi, Kaddi Lehmann and Mishka Ishi.

Semis Decide Girlsโ€™ U-19 Results
The U-19 girls' final at the Youth World Championship in Arco produced an exceptionally close contest, with four athletes scoring 34+. Anika Deubler claimed theโ€ฆ
Chanjin Jung defends his YWC title
Chanjin Jung, who also won the youth world championship in 2025, was the only climber to top the semifinal route, then went on to finish three holds ahead of thโ€ฆ
8c, 8A+ and two 8B's by Natalia Grossman (18)
Natalia Grossman reports on Insta that she has done the route Positive Vibrations 8c and three hard boulders; Halfway Crooks 8A+, Jeremiah Low 8B and Wheel of Fortune 8B. The 18-year-old got two silver in the Youth World Championship last year and among the seniors, she was #7 in the Boulder World Cup in Vail.

Interestingly is that five years ago she made her whole family move from California to Boulder so she could start to train with Robin Erbesfield-Raboutouand the ABC team. As a matter of a fact, her dedication came already at age 4 when she for the first time did see a climbing wall but she had to wait for her sixth birthday when she for the very first time was allowed to start climbing. Until the lockdown of the gyms she has almost only focused on competitions.

World explorer Toni Arbonรฉs (53) still doing 8b+
Toni Arbones the godfather of Siurana, started as an alpinist in the 80's but quickly also begun competing in the World Cup. Later he moved to Siurana where he put up many of the hardest and most classical routes and opened up a refugio. Since 2000, he runs Camping Siurana accommodating some 15 000 climbers every year. Toni has also over the years developed big walls in South America, Madagascar, Marocco and China where he currently lives.

"In the last years I have kept the motivation high to climb and explore many new places around the world. I am a passionate climber and I like to share with the community. After developing Siurana and the area of the Priorat, (Montsant And Capรงanes) and positioning it like a world-class destination, I understood that my passion did not stop and I decided to build a crazy amount of routes in many different countries. In Taghia in Marrocco, I made 5 multi-pitches and a refugee for climbers in an amazing location. After visiting China for eight years putting up more than 200 pitches, I proposed to my family to move to China and try to build another world-class destination! Maybe if the situation is stable next year we will move all the family, to Le ye, Guangxi province, for bolting !

This is our future or maybe just a dream? Local government helps us to make everything easier and we take this chance... I like to keep dreaming about the vertical world, about movements and sequence of rock holds when I go to bed... I like to show the nicest places to my daughters, and build paradises, building rock destination, to make this crazy world better, more sociable, more sustainable, and easier to live in...

In the last years, I still manage to climb a lot, maybe fewer expeditions, but I live closer to the rocks and I can go nearly every day for a little session. Just before the quarantine, I climb again 8b+ and I was so closed to finish with another FA of an 8c but now after this period of confinement I need again to be used to this powerful climbing style... I hope asap I can do, but until I donโ€™t succeed I keep dreaming about it."

Pure Dreaming 9a by Laura Rogora (19)
Laura Rogora, who has qualified for the Olympics, reports on Insta that she has done Pure Dreaming 9a in Arco in just eight tries. "It is an endurance test. The hardest moves are after 20 meters of sustained climbing (8b+). The key to send it is to climb fast and exploit the rest point on that part in order to reach the boulder with enough power."

In total, the 153 cm tall has now done 10 routes graded 8c+/9a or harder which is most out of all females. Last year she moved from Rome to Arco.

How does the climbing scene differ in between Rome and Arco? The crags around Rome are 1.30-2 hours from the city and almost everything is already bolted. There are still a few interesting projects but in Arco the situation ss totally different. There are more hard routes and still a lot to be climbed and bolted just nearby.

Stefano Carnati has done The Party's Here 9a in Valbrona. "I first tried it one day last year when it was still a project. Then Gabri Moroni did the FA in October! Last week I decided to get back on it, despite warm and humid conditions. It was a great project to test my shape after quarantine and Iโ€™m really happy it went down!

Beginning 9a/+ FA by Stefano Ghisolfi
Stefano Ghisolfi continues to show great form after the lockdown having done the FA of Beginning 9a/+ in Arco. "It is a connection between St. Anger and Zauberfee, the two historical routes." More info on his Insta. (c) Laura Rogora. Next for Stefano is to start bolting a new route which he has never done before.

Halupca 1979 9a by Jernej Kruder
Jernej Kruder, Boulder World Cup winner in 2018, has done his second 9a in May, Halupca 1979 in Osp/Misja Pec. "No comps- time to crush old projects...incredible fight." (c) Suzana Aursic

Collin Duffy (16) Olympic interview
Colin Duffy participated in one IFSC comp in 2019, when he was #2 in Lead in the Youth World Championship. In 2017 and 2018 he won. By winning the final Lead event, as he was the fastest to top out, in the Pan American, he got a ticket to Tokyo. We sent over some questions to the 166 cm 16-year-old and got some interesting answers.

I started climbing when I found the sport at a local recreation center around 4 years old. I fell in love with the challenge of the wall and would beg my parents to let me do it again. From there I practiced the sport periodically until I started taking it seriously at age 8. I'd say my coach Robyn Raboutou has meant the most for my career. When I started on team ABC in 2012, she has always believed in me and motivated me to try harder and perform better.

The thing I love most about comps is the opportunity to try creative and well-set boulders/lead climbs, and hang out with other talented athletes from all over the world. The competition atmosphere is always super exciting and there is no other feeling like the adrenaline you get pre-climb.

I didn't really have my eyes on the Olympics until the start of 2020. Since I didn't compete on the adult circuit last year, I didn't know I would even have the chance to qualify until the finish of Toulouse. Also, to get to compete at the Pan American Championships I had place first go through the American Combined Championships. I'd say I gave the same effort for Olympics as I would for any big competition. I made sure my skill was peaking at the right time and I was mentally prepared. I'd say my parents had the biggest impact on me making it. They've supported me every step of the way and I was glad to have them by my side when I qualified.

During lockdown I have been mainly training on the climbing wall I have at my home, and doing virtual workout sessions with a personal trainer. While it's hard to find the motivation to train during quarantine I've tried to make the most of my sessions at home. Also, in Colorado restrictions are starting to ease up so I'll likely be able to climb in a gym regularly very soon. Just this last week I was able to get in my first session at ABC since the start of quarantine. Outdoor climbing is also an option for me but I haven't had the opportunity to get out as I've been focused on my studies.

If no comps are held this year, I'll just spend my time training specific weaknesses and working each individual discipline. Most notably I'm excited to try to make more improvement in my speed climbing. While it would be unfortunate if no comps are held this year as I lack experience on the international stage, I'll make the most out of my training.

While I still don't have as much outdoor experience as I'd like, I've gotten to go to some of America's best climbing spots in the past. My hardest boulder at this point is "The Grand Hustle" V13/8b which I did in Red Rocks, Nevada at age 11. My two hardest sport routes are "Pure Imagination" and "Southern Smoke" both located at the Red River Gorge, Kentucky and are both 5.14c/8c+. I actually did both of these routes on the same day during my short trip there. While I haven't nearly reached my potential outdoors, I look forward to getting outside in the near future and testing my limits. I'd say my goals for the next few years are to climb a V15/8c boulder and a 5.15a/9a+ lead route.

8a.nu Launch Announcement
Over the past several years weโ€™ve been working hard on the complete redesign of 8a. In addition to the updated interface, weโ€™ve spent an incredible amount of time migrating and improving the existing data to ensure the site maintains its legacy and as a platform is able to grow and continue to improve.

Weโ€™re so glad to finally share the newly transformed site and are eager for it to continue documenting historical moments in the climbing community for many years to come. With the new mobile-friendly interface, you can now stay up-to-date when youโ€™re at the crag and on the move. Search, explore and filter with ease and enjoy the upgraded logbook which offers unique visualisation of your climbing data.

Please note the site will be temporarily down this evening for up to 24 hours while we complete the final migration. If you visit the site during the downtime you should be redirected to our holding page where you can check out a series of interactive charts and graphs documenting the history of climbing using 8a data.

If you have questions or issues with the new site, please reach out to our support desk or leave us some feedback. As always, weโ€™re excited to continue improving the experience for all of you. Special thanks to all of our beta testers who provided great feedback for transforming 8a into what it is today!