World explorer Toni Arbonés (53) still doing 8b+


Tuesday, 26 May

Toni Arbones the godfather of Siurana, started as an alpinist in the 80's but quickly also begun competing in the World Cup. Later he moved to Siurana where he put up many of the hardest and most classical routes and opened up a refugio. Since 2000, he runs Camping Siurana accommodating some 15 000 climbers every year. Toni has also over the years developed big walls in South America, Madagascar, Marocco and China where he currently lives.

"In the last years I have kept the motivation high to climb and explore many new places around the world. I am a passionate climber and I like to share with the community. After developing Siurana and the area of the Priorat, (Montsant And Capçanes) and positioning it like a world-class destination, I understood that my passion did not stop and I decided to build a crazy amount of routes in many different countries. In Taghia in Marrocco, I made 5 multi-pitches and a refugee for climbers in an amazing location. After visiting China for eight years putting up more than 200 pitches, I proposed to my family to move to China and try to build another world-class destination! Maybe if the situation is stable next year we will move all the family, to Le ye, Guangxi province, for bolting !

This is our future or maybe just a dream? Local government helps us to make everything easier and we take this chance... I like to keep dreaming about the vertical world, about movements and sequence of rock holds when I go to bed... I like to show the nicest places to my daughters, and build paradises, building rock destination, to make this crazy world better, more sociable, more sustainable, and easier to live in...

In the last years, I still manage to climb a lot, maybe fewer expeditions, but I live closer to the rocks and I can go nearly every day for a little session. Just before the quarantine, I climb again 8b+ and I was so closed to finish with another FA of an 8c but now after this period of confinement I need again to be used to this powerful climbing style... I hope asap I can do, but until I don’t succeed I keep dreaming about it."

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