Clément Lechaptois has repeated Dave Graham’s classic The Story Of 2 Worlds (8C) in Cresciano. The name of the Boulder comes from the intense grade inflation back in 2005, which actually basically stopped after Dave’s article on 8a.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Tried the boulder on and off from time to time over the seasons and I often felt close but never finished it off. I am here in Ticino for a while and the weather isn't great for now, this one is probably the first one to get dry after the rain so I took my chance the other day and it ended up well I guess! I climbed it from Dave's OG start and with kneepad.

What is coming up next?
I am here in Ticino for at least one more month, super psyched to enjoy the tons of boulders the area has to offer and maybe try some projects. I had a look at Story of 3 worlds and it's really fun, so I might try again as it's gonna rain again 😅 I have some stuff in mind but for know the plan is to not make too much plans and get in good shape.

Nicolai Užnik, who the last year has sent nine boulders 8C to 9A, has done the first ascent of Full Gem (8C+) in Chironico. The 25-year-old Austrian has spent twelve years on the competition circuit, capping off last World Cup season with a strong eighth-place finish in Innsbruck. (c) Vladek Zumr

Can you tell us more about the first ascent?
Well, it’s the sit start to Forgotten Gem (8C), which I climbed last year around this time on my second go. It adds a couple of quite basic but hard moves into the stand, which makes the whole line significantly harder. It took me around six or seven sessions, I think, to finish. One of the best moments I’ve had was when it clicked and I topped out. Such a pure line!
What is coming up next?
I’m probably going to just mainly train at home the next 2-3 weeks since I’m going to Burden of Dreams (9A) end of February! I might have one or two sessions on the replica but otherwise just gonna train normally.

What about comp preperation?
i‘m starting my world cup season in bern end of may so there‘s still some time, probably going to slowly shift my focus towards comps after finland tho.

Tyler Thompson, with 14 9a’s and beyond under his belt, has completed Bachelor Party (9a) in Mount Potosi. ”Totally desperate end of day effort. Pure power endurance test. No knees for the history!”

Can you tell us more about the experience with the ascent?
I checked out Bachelor party last week after doing Hold Your Fire (8c) that shares the initial hard climbing. Pretty quickly I was climbing to the final roof and falling off the long mono pull crux. A few more days of inching up my highpoint and I managed to send on my 3rd go of the day, after having 4 the previous day. It was one of those rare experiences where you have no expectations and that let me climb better than I had been able to previously!

The route is pretty interesting. It was bolted and set by Joe Brooks and established in 2002 by Francois Legrand. It was one of the first 9a’s in the states and in full 90’s style, nearly entirely on manufactured holds. It’s obviously different ethics than we have nowadays but it still stands as a historic testpiece and has surprisingly few repeats, myself being the 4th.

What is next?
Heading out now to have one more session on Necessary Evil (8c+) and will have some days climbing slightly easier routes in the Clear light.

Leaving for Spain on Tuesday! Hoping to try La Rambla if weather permits! Planning on 8 weeks right now.

Iris Bielli has done Il lupo perde il pelo ma non il vizio (8c+) in Sasso Pelo. The 21-year-old Italian is a versatile climber, excelling across disciplines and sending 8b climbs in multi-pitch, trad, and bouldering.

Can you tell us more about doing your first 8c+?
The route features an intense start that culminates with a fourteenth move that I found particularly challenging. This is followed by some tiring moves, a short rest, then a second crux focused on body positioning, and finally some other pumpy moves all the way to the anchor. I tried the route for the first time in November. I managed to solve all the moves already on my first try and, on the fourth day working on it, I climbed the route with just one rest at the fourteenth move, but I had never managed to pass the first crux in continuity. I then decided not to try the route for three weeks due to a pain in my left middle finger. I returned in January with my finger healed and renewed motivation. After a first day to remind my muscles of body positioning, the day of the ascent arrived.

That day, I changed my beta for the first crux and, on the next go, I passed through the fourteenth move for the first time, then crossed the second crux and had a real fight against the pump to climb the last moves to reach the chain. Happy to have kept my cool and not let my emotions get the better of me in the second part of the route. It took seven days to send it.

What is your climbing background?
I started climbing at the age of 14 after practising artistic gymnastics for several years. Initially, I only used to go climbing at the crag and in the gym, but then, after three years, I discovered multi-pitch climbing and became passionate about it. I like visiting new places and experiencing the feeling of freedom and emptiness under my feet while climbing big walls.

Esteban Daligault, with eight 9a’s to his name, has repeated Bon Voyage (9a) in Annot, after some eight sessions. James Pearson put it up in 2023 and it is considered one of the hardest trad routes in the world and Esteban did the fourth repeat after Adam Ondra, Jacopo Larcher and Sebastien Berthe. (c) Henning Wang

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Easily one of the most aesthetic routes I’ve ever climbed. A trad roof, a very natural line, finishing with a traverse — classy from start to finish. I first tried it for a couple of days last spring. Back then, it felt really hard and I thought it would be a long-term project. Then I came back this fall… and things clicked much faster than I expected. I also spend a lot of time alpine climbing, so my main focus had been on alpinism. I was stoked to see that I managed to keep my climbing fitness alongside it. Sometimes everything just comes together at the right moment.

How safe was it, what about the double protection and did you use the fixed slings?
Yeah, it felt pretty safe — the gear is solid. I placed around ten pieces, mostly in the roof where it’s a bit more committing. I placed a 0.3 cam, with a 0.2 below it in case the 0.3 fails. I used them [the fixed slings] during the first tries but not during the send.

Can you tell us more about your most memborable alpine climbing experience this season?
A few weeks before Bon Voyage, I climbed the Directe de l’Amitié on the Grandes Jorasses. Direct de lAmitié on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses is a legendary 1,100 m route, together with Virgile Devin and Simon Martinet. We completed the first fully free ascent, including the long crux pitch previously climbed in aid (up to M9+). For me, it was a very intense and meaningful experience — highly committed climbing, strong teamwork, and a real adventure built on trust and friendship.