Natalia Grossman, who will be competing in the Paris Olympics, reports on Instagram that she has done Southern Smoke (8c+) and Lucifer (8c+) in Red River Gorge (KY), after just three climbing days. "Although the weather was not ideal, we made the most of it, and by the end, I had learned how to climb with numb fingers."

What is coming up next?
I am currently just spending time with family and taking a break from training. A few weeks/months of no training and just climbing with friends for fun. I started doing this 3 years ago after my first IFSC season.

Natalia is mostly regarded as excelling at bouldering, has over the last three years won the World Cup and in 2021, she became the World Champion. Outdoors, she has sent well over 20 boulders 8A+ and beyond.

Jesse Grupper reports on Instagram that he has repeated Jonathan Siegrist's Full Metal Brisket (9a+) in New River Gorge (WV). The redpoint took five sessions and after day four Grupper felt he needed to take a step back, so he took a quick trip to Red River Gorge where he flashed Pure Imagination (8c+) and onsighted Thanatopsis 8b+ (c).

"That night I felt frustrated. I felt the weight of months of high performance comp climbing weighing on me. I had convinced myself that I was here to perform and send. I was honestly a bit over it. I was supposed to be outdoors doing the thing I loved, but that love felt fake. I wanted to leave. That night I decided to do just that." (c) Karen Lane

What do you do for mental training and can you elaborate a bit on that feeling of ”fake love” that you mentioned?
I do yoga, and meditate when I have the time. Rock climbings been my bread and butter in the sport, but taking a pause from it for the comp scene left me feeling a little lost in it, and coming back to it it was hard to find that same enjoyment that I knew I had towards it, that wasn't overly influenced by my feelings from the comp season.

What are your winter plans?
I'm planning on focusing on building a base for the upcoming WC season/Olympics.

Jonathan Siegrist has done the FA of The Creeping Unknown (9a) in La Madres. "It's a stunning panel of rock with such improbable movement on it! I climbed it to the half way mark earlier this year for around 8c/+ but really I wanted to come back to clean the finish as it makes the most sense as a full line. I'm so stoked on how it turned out and it was such a great feeling to get it finished before I finally go into some more focused training for winter."

Can you say something about your Euro trip where we can see you have logged five onsights 8b or 8b+?
Before I got back to Vegas 2 weeks ago I was climbing in St Leger. It was a complete joy to discover this area for the first time with good friends. I had some daily onsighting goals which was very different for me and so fun! I think I learned a few things about pacing and planning.

What are your plans and goals for 2024?
Too many goals honestly! Some around here in Vegas, some in France, some in Wyoming. Maybe the most exciting one is to try and finish a mega project of mine at the Fins. Time to start training! I was there already to try it three times. I have been a bit afraid of it, to be honest, but for me, it is the hardest and best line I have ever bolted so I want to try and make it a priority.

How long and steep is it?
40 meters. Maybe overhanging by 5 degrees.

Most of us would have probably guessed you were into steeper terrain?
I like it all! I used to be obsessed with technical climbing and was bad at steep stuff and caves. Back when I bolted this project! But since, and over the last few years I was mostly climbing steeper stuff and trying to improve there. Now time to go back to the tiny holds...

Since this morning, 13. Dec 2023, at 9 AM CET, we're doing a 24-hour test phase for our latest feature: one source for all ascents and content in Vertical-Life and 8a, with fully synced logbooks, route lists and ascent feeds, as well as seamless syncing between 8a and the Vertical-Life App.

What's New? If you're a Vertical-Life app user logging outdoor ascents, your 8a logbook will now capture all ascents, regardless of where you recorded them. For those with ascents from both the app and website, a new 'include duplicates' checkbox is available at the top of your logbook for easy identification and management. This feature, combined with alphabetic sorting, allows you to edit or delete any duplicate entries, ensuring a tidy and accurate logbook. Don't worry, we have not deleted any ascents. What isn't synced: past rankings, the gallery images, and the followings. This will follow soon. If you are not using the app yet, the main difference will be more ascents overall on the website. All other improvements will come with the redesigned web version that we are launching beginning of next year.

Your Feedback Matters! Encountering issues? Whether it's duplicate ascents, missing entries, broken link or any other glitches, we want to hear from you. Shoot an email to our product manager, Simon ([email protected]) with a screenshot, a link to the page, and a brief description of the issue. Your input is invaluable, and we'll be gathering feedback for the next 24 hours before reverting to our previous system for tweaks and fixes.

Thank you so much for your help!

Stefano Carnati has sent Sanjski par extension (9a) in Osp/Misja Pec. This was the 24th ascent of a 9a route and beyond including Erebor (9b) which the 25-year-old sent this spring.

Can you tell us more about Sansjki Par and Misja Pec?
As I moved to Slovenia for my studies, Misja Pec is one of the closest winter crags. I climbed there a few times 12 years ago and it was definitely good to come back! This past weekend I had the opportunity to attempt “Sanjski pas extension” with some strong friends. I spent three days in a row on the route, and finally, despite the tiredness, on my 10th try I was able to climb through the middle crux and continue till the top!

Kerry Scott and Maya Madere have done Trebuchet (8c) in New River Gorge (WV). Previously, they have both done several boulders 8A to 8A+, but this was their first 8c route. (c) Karen Lane

Kerry: "I essentially learned how to climb at the New, and it was really awesome to return and put down my hardest sport send to date. My hot take is that the New is the best rock climbing in the world. It has such a hard and unique style that definitely takes some adapting. It was really sick to see Maya adapt to the style quickly and crush too!

Or maybe the New is the most underrated? Haha, I don’t claim to have much worldly experience, but the New is just SO good. I have been to Ceuse though, and I think the New is better 👀 😅"

Can you tell us more about your ascents?
Kerry: It ended up taking me 5 sessions, and I think it took Maya 4. We both had very promising sessions on it early on, but struggled a bit with skin and balancing our energy with different projects we were trying.

Maya: It was really cool to try Trebuchet with Kerry because we climbed it so differently. Although we shared and debated beta extensively, we ended up using completely different beta for almost every section. We also had totally different cruxes; the roof boulder was by far the hardest part for me while Kerry could consistently climb through it from the ground and made it look chill every time. I love climbing with Kerry in part because our styles are so different and I learn so much every time we climb together! It’s awesome to have a partner who complements and challenges my skill set so well.

This was also my first trip to the New, and it was super fun and challenging to start learning the NRG style. The movement there is really unique and the long, but bouldery, routes demand a balance of fitness and power. We stayed there for almost 3 weeks and there’s still a long list of routes I can’t wait to go back for.

Tina Johnsen Hafsaas has completed Pure Imagination (8c+) in Red River Gorge (KY). The Norwegian has been an active IFSC competition climber for 15 years straight and her best result was fourth place in, Chamonix, in 2017. (c) Colette McInerney

How did you prepare for the trip?
I prepared for this trip in the gym. Mostly crimpy circuits on spray wall, but I also climbed outdoors on a home project once a week to prep my skin. I was pretty consistent with two days of climbing with every day 1 including hard bouldering too. I would typically do bouldering and short circuits day 1 and longer circuits day 2. If I felt too tired to boulder with quality I would do full session circuits, they are always easier for me to complete with high quality. Coming from competitions I am used to a training schedule with varied style, and a lot of the time is spent working weaknesses, but preparing for this trip I really embraced my strengths and the style I would meet in the Red. It was fun!

How was your progress on the route?
My process on the route was pretty linear, but quite slow. Because it is so sharp I couldn’t climb a lot on it every session, and that’s kind of what you want to do in the beginning while learning moves, sequences and how to rest. But I had to be smart with my skin and focus on building it up rather than tearing down. I did first half of the trip climbing on Pure with fresh skin and power after a rest day, and play around on side projects day 2, but I quickly realized skin was a crucial piece in this puzzle so as soon as I got into send mode I rested more and prioritized to get as many day 1’s as possible. I felt pretty confident on the top and did boulder to top link quite fast, but getting through the bottom boulder took me days.

My tactic was to be in a position to send once I got through the boulder. I didn’t do that, but I got pretty close second time I passed it by sticking the bump which is the red point crux, and falling going into the last rest. After this try I knew I would send, I just needed one more good day. Some bad weather followed, which gave me time to work on some new details and heal a flapper and split.

I would say some of the hardest in the process was to actually try hard. I spent days just playing on the route, finding beta and being happy with small links, and going from this chill attitude to actually try hard took a few more sessions than I thought it would. If I was to do it again I would make sure to try harder as soon as I thought it was possible. After having put in the work it all came down to details, conditions and skin. I did Omaha Beach (8b+) right after. It was a good day.

What is next and what about competitions in 2024?
Next is to continue to explore my limits on rock. I’ve never really had the time, in between competitions and the preparation that requires, but now I will take some time and focus on rock. I have a few exciting trips planned for both sport and bouldering, and also climb more on home turf. I just came back from a long-term injury so I just want to keep the momentum going and do whatever excites me. Right now that is training for rock projects and being out there trying hard.

Sebastien Bouin has made the first repeat of Matteo Gambaro’s Narcissus (9a) in Oltrefinale / Albenga. In total, he has now done over 80 routes 8c+/9a and harder which puts him as #3 on that list after Adam Ondra and Alex Megos. (c) Clarisse Bompard

”The route follows the edge of the large roof overlooking the upper part of the cliff, which is reached by climbing the previously existing 8c of ‘Calmiamoci e’ and, instead of going clipping the chain, it continues through an additional section of the roof to finally reach the exit of another 8b+ route ‘Space Shuttle’.

We spent two days in Albenga, Italy and it was my opportunity to check out the route from Matteo Gambaro - Narcissus. He told me on the phone that the route consisted of a big overhanging wall, tufas with lots of endurance needed. I said, “Ok Matteo, you’ve sold it to me, I am gonna try this one!”

I did this route on my 4th go. It’s pretty much my style. It starts with an intense 8c route, then there is a good rest, followed by the main section of the route through the roof. Regarding the grade, Matteo proposed 9a/+. I think it’s probably the right grade, without knee pads (Matteo did the route without). I sent the route using some kneebars though, and I think it is a solid 9a using knee pads. Thanks to Matteo for attracting me to this route.