9 December 2023
Seb Bouin does Narcissus (9a)
Sebastien Bouin has made the first repeat of Matteo Gambaroโs Narcissus (9a) in Oltrefinale / Albenga. In total, he has now done over 80 routes 8c+/9a and harder which puts him as #3 on that list after Adam Ondra and Alex Megos. (c) Clarisse Bompard
โThe route follows the edge of the large roof overlooking the upper part of the cliff, which is reached by climbing the previously existing 8c of โCalmiamoci eโ and, instead of going clipping the chain, it continues through an additional section of the roof to finally reach the exit of another 8b+ route โSpace Shuttleโ.
We spent two days in Albenga, Italy and it was my opportunity to check out the route from Matteo Gambaro - Narcissus. He told me on the phone that the route consisted of a big overhanging wall, tufas with lots of endurance needed. I said, โOk Matteo, youโve sold it to me, I am gonna try this one!โ
I did this route on my 4th go. Itโs pretty much my style. It starts with an intense 8c route, then there is a good rest, followed by the main section of the route through the roof. Regarding the grade, Matteo proposed 9a/+. I think itโs probably the right grade, without knee pads (Matteo did the route without). I sent the route using some kneebars though, and I think it is a solid 9a using knee pads. Thanks to Matteo for attracting me to this route.
โThe route follows the edge of the large roof overlooking the upper part of the cliff, which is reached by climbing the previously existing 8c of โCalmiamoci eโ and, instead of going clipping the chain, it continues through an additional section of the roof to finally reach the exit of another 8b+ route โSpace Shuttleโ.
We spent two days in Albenga, Italy and it was my opportunity to check out the route from Matteo Gambaro - Narcissus. He told me on the phone that the route consisted of a big overhanging wall, tufas with lots of endurance needed. I said, โOk Matteo, youโve sold it to me, I am gonna try this one!โ
I did this route on my 4th go. Itโs pretty much my style. It starts with an intense 8c route, then there is a good rest, followed by the main section of the route through the roof. Regarding the grade, Matteo proposed 9a/+. I think itโs probably the right grade, without knee pads (Matteo did the route without). I sent the route using some kneebars though, and I think it is a solid 9a using knee pads. Thanks to Matteo for attracting me to this route.
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