Sungsu Lee, who has just signed up with six 8C’s and one 9a+ only in 2024, has completed Lucid Dreaming (8C) in Buttermilks. (c) Gum Jang Su

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Bishop is the first rock trip I went on with my Korean homies. I’m happy to be back here. It took 5 sessions to send it this, and now it’s time to start another project. I’m working on The Process (8C+) now! and since I’m leaving Bishop on 12/31, I don’t have much time left🙄

Janja Garnbret has reported on Instagram that she during a quick visit to Schleierwasserfall last month has done Hide and Sick (8B+), Power of goodbye (8B), Wrestling with an alligator (8B), Black Jack (8A+) as well as a flash of Orgasmatron (8A). Earlier this year, the double Olympic winner sent Bügeleisen (8C) and won all the five World Cups she participated in.

Gabriele Moroni, who last month sent an 8B+ and Megalodonte (8C) in Val di Mello, has made the FA of Prima Linea (9a+). Over the past 12 months, the 37-year-old has climbed another four routes graded between 9a and 9b. Gabri works as the head routesetter at Urbano in Milan, while also setting routes for both national and international competitions. Additionally, he serves as a coach for Team Italia. (c) Luca Consonni

Can you tell us more about the FA?
The day Alberto Gnerro invited me to join him at his crag, I couldn’t contain my excitement. I’d heard about this legendary wall for years but never felt the urge to ask if I could tag along. Alberto has been one of my childhood heroes—a climber I’ve always admired and the most prolific route developer in our region. I’ve been climbing on his creations since I was a teenager, and I’ll always be grateful for what he’s done, and continues to do, for our community. That first day at the crag was unforgettable. I was in awe of the wall’s sheer scale and steepness—it was both impressive and intimidating. Alberto pointed out a line I could barely make out, a route with seemingly no features. “That’s the first route I bolted here,” he said. “It should suit your style. You have to try it!”

Fast forward to this season—20 sessions later... I’d just returned from several days of route-setting in Paris. I should’ve felt exhausted, but that wasn’t the case. Straight off the plane, I drove to the project and ended up having one of my best sessions yet, despite the lack of sleep. Later that week, I found myself with a rare free day. It was dry, windy, and not too cold—the kind of day climbers dream of. Everything lined up perfectly. I felt light, in a way I hadn’t for a long time. The atmosphere was relaxed, just me, Stefano Bianchi, and Alberto. I felt supported and at ease.

When I stepped off the ground, I knew this time was different. The send didn’t come as a surprise—it felt natural. I was completely connected to every hold, fully in control of both my body and my mind. It was an incredible moment, made even more special by having Alberto there to witness it. A true full-circle experience.

How come you think you possibly have had your best 12 months outdoors ever?
I think I have reached a point where my private life, work and performance are aligned and I can express myself at my best. I don’t train much, but I constantly give my body some stimuli. And finally, this is the first year since 2015 that my elbows don’t hurt.

Jorge Diaz-Rullo, who earlier this autumn sent two 9b+’ in Flatanger, has repeated Chris Sharma’s Stoking the Fire (9b) in Santa Linya. The 25-year-old is #1 in the Vertical-Life ranking game. ”Really cool moves with crazy drowknees in a perfect hard endurance section. It was always a dream line!” (c) Mar Diaz Miranda

Jonathan Siegrist has onsighted Panem et Circensis (8b) and Arco and I Riflessi del Rosso (1st pitch) (8b+) in Pizarra. In the VL ranking game, the 39-year-old is runner up after Jorge Diaz-Rullo. ”Absolutely brilliant! Such cool holds. Totally different than the routes more to the right.”

Can you tell us more about the onsights and Pizarra?
The wall is not so tall but the routes are actually super consistent. It’s really pumpy! You have to climb really controlled. It fits my style really well because I climb super slow. Probably too slow… The area is absolutely beautiful.

I really try to imagine as much of the route as I can from the ground. Ideally, I want to have a sequence for the first few bolts. But after that, it’s just guessing! For me, I typically do best onsights when I know an area pretty well. For this reason, I almost always save my hard flashes or onsights for the end of the trip. But honestly, I am not an expert at this style, comp climbers have it dialled it’s insane! I’m trying to improve.

Yesterday, Jonathan also onsighted Fine di un'Epoca (8b) in Arco.