Gabri Moroni FA’s Prima Linea (9a+)

Gabriele Moroni, who last month sent an 8B+ and Megalodonte (8C) in Val di Mello, has made the FA of Prima Linea (9a+). Over the past 12 months, the 37-year-old has climbed another four routes graded between 9a and 9b. Gabri works as the head routesetter at Urbano in Milan, while also setting routes for both national and international competitions. Additionally, he serves as a coach for Team Italia. (c) Luca Consonni

Can you tell us more about the FA?
The day Alberto Gnerro invited me to join him at his crag, I couldn’t contain my excitement. I’d heard about this legendary wall for years but never felt the urge to ask if I could tag along. Alberto has been one of my childhood heroes—a climber I’ve always admired and the most prolific route developer in our region. I’ve been climbing on his creations since I was a teenager, and I’ll always be grateful for what he’s done, and continues to do, for our community. That first day at the crag was unforgettable. I was in awe of the wall’s sheer scale and steepness—it was both impressive and intimidating. Alberto pointed out a line I could barely make out, a route with seemingly no features. “That’s the first route I bolted here,” he said. “It should suit your style. You have to try it!”

Fast forward to this season—20 sessions later... I’d just returned from several days of route-setting in Paris. I should’ve felt exhausted, but that wasn’t the case. Straight off the plane, I drove to the project and ended up having one of my best sessions yet, despite the lack of sleep. Later that week, I found myself with a rare free day. It was dry, windy, and not too cold—the kind of day climbers dream of. Everything lined up perfectly. I felt light, in a way I hadn’t for a long time. The atmosphere was relaxed, just me, Stefano Bianchi, and Alberto. I felt supported and at ease.

When I stepped off the ground, I knew this time was different. The send didn’t come as a surprise—it felt natural. I was completely connected to every hold, fully in control of both my body and my mind. It was an incredible moment, made even more special by having Alberto there to witness it. A true full-circle experience.

How come you think you possibly have had your best 12 months outdoors ever?
I think I have reached a point where my private life, work and performance are aligned and I can express myself at my best. I don’t train much, but I constantly give my body some stimuli. And finally, this is the first year since 2015 that my elbows don’t hurt.