Vojta Trojan, with twelve 9a and beyond climbs under his belt, has ticked Mr. Big (9a) in Margalef. ”So good! Thanks Tom for such an experience. About the grade I would say rather soft, but it’s my style so I have no idea honestly. And honestly I don’t care so much.. this climb is just amazing.” (c) Vojta Ruta

Can you tell us more about the trip and the send of Mr. Big?
I’m so syked to be back here in Margalef. I almost forgot how much I like the climbing here! We’re very lucky with weather our whole stay here - climbing in decent conditions in the sun in Espadelles sector. Sometimes it’s too warm, but it gives you the vacation vibes which is not too bad!

I tried Mr. Big like a side project and got very close to send it very fast, falling on the very last hard move just 3 moves below the anchor. That try I opened a split and had to wait a bit to heal it. In the end I sent the route with a tape, which is maybe the first one for me :D

Piotr Schab has been on a ten days trip to Alicante where he has onsighted nine routes 8a+ and beyond including 2is evolution (8b+)and El Ultimo Mono (8b+). In total, the 28-year-old Pole has onsighted 36 routes 8b+ and beyond meaning he is a contendor to be the runner-up in the world after Adam Ondra and Patxi Usobiaga in this disciplin. He is also the #1 in the VL yearly onsight ranking game.

Can you tell us more about the trip and your focus on onsight?
New years trip with my family, climbing with my father who introduced me to this world 20 years ago. Mostly onsighting since I’ve never really climbed in Costa Blanca and always loved onsight game. Cheers to all of the Sella community for a nice week!

Giorgio Tomatis has completed Seleccio Natural (9a) in Santa Linya. In total, the 21-year-old has now done seven routes 9a and beyond.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
This route is a nice testpiece of power endurance. I send it in 8 tries and I felt one time on the last move. I love this stylr of route and I think it’s an hard 9a. In this trip to Santa linya I send also La Novena Puerta (8c+) in 5 tries and I started to try Stoking the Fire (9b), I will come back in by best shape for this one⚔️

Austin Hoyt and Adam Shahar, who was #7 and #12 in his two last World Cups, have sent Lucid Dreaming (8C) in Buttermilks. Adam has during the last five months done his first four 8C’s. ”This real? Or just dreaming? Most meaningful ascent yet. Means the world to me. Proud.”

We got the full story from Austin as well as a picture of him. (c) Taylor Bolt

”My story with lucid started a long time ago, I remember watching the Reel Rock segment with it getting climbed and being super inspired. Fast forward to my first trip to Bishop, standing under the grips I knew I had to try. I managed to climb the high start “Rastaman Vibrations” relatively quick that season. I knew it was game on. I ended up dedicating 5 more days to the full line only sticking the pinch from the ground once.

On trip two I only had one goal, Lucid Dreaming. I tried for about a month consistently sticking the pinch and falling on the jump. One night Ross Fulkerson inspired me to try a double clutch dyno method and I managed to stick it in iso. I got closer and closer having my last burn of the trip be my closest.

This year my tactics were a little different. I trained on the sim [replica] a bit and just felt all around much stronger. When I showed up this year I repeated all the moves first try on my first session. Day two on it this year I managed to do the “two move link”, linking the move to the pinch and the jump. I gave it two ground burns that night and got agonizingly close. On the third session of the trip I knew I was ready and took it down first try of the day. It felt surreal climbing the slab and I was rewarded with the prettiest sunset I’ve ever seen in Bishop.”

Michele Reusa and Matteo Reusa (pictured) have completed Cobra Reale (9a) in Andonno.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Michele, 18: It is a connection of Cobra (8b) and Anaconda (8c). It is a route of resistance strength and I am very happy to have done the route because it is not my style.

Matteo, 17: I tried this route last year, always falling on the last move. this year when I came back to try it I managed to send it.

Now the teenagers are in Margalef where both have onsighted 8b and redpointed several other hard routes 8b+ and beyond.

Alma Bestvater spent New Year as usual in Brione, where she sent Darkness (8A+) and Frogger (8A) (pictured). The 28-year-old climber began competing in World Cup events in 2013 and achieved her best results in 2018, securing 5th and 6th place finishes. Following a serious shoulder injury in 2022, she took a hiatus from competition. Despite this setback, she made an impressive return in 2024 being 22nd overall. (c) Felix Beyer

Can you tell us more about the trip and the highlights?
The trip was amazing, and I’m happy to share more about it. One of the highlights was finally sending Darkness. I actually attempted it a year ago, but back then, I got a nasty cut that stopped me from finishing it. This year, it was still on my list, and luckily, my skin held up against the razor-sharp crimp this time. There’s honestly no better feeling than realizing you’ve improved, both mentally and physically.

Funny enough, it was almost exactly six years ago that I climbed Molonk (7C), and at the time, it was a massive project for me. Coming back this year and sending Molonk Left (7C+) in about 10 minutes was one of the most satisfying climbing moments of the trip—and probably the whole year.

Right before jumping into Darkness, I also managed a pretty quick send of Red (8A). The day before, I worked on Frogger, which was a fun little one-day side project as well.